Epic Bike tour in northern Portugal: Part 3

The famous “ponte” in Ponte de Lima, northern Portugal.

(Apologies for the gap in finishing the account of this wonderful three-day bike tour in northern Portugal. Olive picking season arrived early and when those olives are ready, you better pick’ em because the rainy season will soon arrive. It’s like the old saying, make hay while the sun shines.)

Anyway, back to the tour: We spent our second night on the road in the charming little town of Arcos de Valdevez. After a typical Portuguese meal of grilled chicken, french fries and rice with a tiny salad, we wandered back to a place we had seen that had a tempting selection of ice cream. I am not much of an ice cream fan, but my fellow cyclist Graham is.

While we were sitting there, a marching band from the local unit of firefighters, bombeiros, paraded past banging away on their drums for all they were worth. Apparently they were practicing for some upcoming event. It was a good thing it was only about 8:30 at night, not midnight because the drumming was ear-splitting.

Unique time piece

Much more interesting was the aquatic clock in the middle of the square. It was a large bowl-shaped stone circle divided into units marked with roman numerals up to twelve. Each unit had four holes from which a fountain of water could gush. As each quarter hour passed another fountain would begin to flow, showing the time.

I took the photo on the left just before 7 p.m. The one on the right shows the time at about 9:30 p.m. according to the fountains.

The next day dawned bright and clear and we headed off for the 50 kilometer trip back to our start point in Viana do Castelo. Within a few kilometers we passed through the gorgeous little town of Ponte da Barca (Translation: Bridge of the Boat.) The bridge was built in 1543 to replace the ferry boat that people, especially pilgrims going to Santiago de Compostela, used to cross the river Minho.

Our route took us along pathways and roads paralleling the river. We were grateful for the shade as the temperature rose. Unfortunately the route was undulating and we had to scrabble up steep inclines in several places. We kept passing a Spanish jogger, we guessed he was Spanish because of the radio he was playing from some device as he ran). Each time we were on the flat or downhill, we passed him, each time we had to climb, he passed us.

The dreaded cobblestones

Unfortunately much of the route took us on cobblestone roads. I remembered this feature of Portugal from when I walked the camino in northern Portugal in 2018. I could not believe how many of the remote roads were made of cobblestones. The amount of labor that must have gone into the road building in olden days is staggering! They do last, but they are so uncomfortable to ride on. Another teeth rattling experience.

Riding past a tiny bridge over a rivulet near Ponte da Barca.

At the halfway point, we stopped in the town of Ponte de Lima. Another town famous for its bridge and its association with the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. (In case anybody hasn’t heart of it, this is destination for pilgrims who go to visit the tomb of St. James in the cathedral in S. De C.)

I also discovered that Ponte de Lima is a major tourist destination. The place was teeming with tour buses and visitors strolling around its narrow streets. We stopped for lunch at a little cafe with a strange name. We kept trying to figure out why we couldn’t recognize any of the items on the menu. Graham employed a translation app which revealed the mystery. They were all very rude spoof names!

The cafe name and menu uses language that is bleeped on the radio.

After lunch, we took our own stroll over the bridge. The original part dates back to Roman times but that section is now on land. At one end is a church and a large statue wishing pilgrims a “Bom Caminho” or good Camino.

Graham, the cycle tour organizer, posing beside a statue bidding “Bom Camino” to the thousands of pilgrims who cross this bridge at Ponte de Lima.

The last 20 kilometers still took us over a lot of cobblestones and by then it was getting hotter and I was definitely getting tired. However, we finally made it back to Viana do Castelo and crossed the long, long bridge over the Minho, pedaled our way through town, found the car where we had left it, and climbed off our bikes and lay down and rested our weary bones for a few minutes. It was a great ride and I can’t wait to do another one!

Strava map showing our route on the third day.

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Olive harvesting in Portugal: brings friends, and neighbors together in new ways

For the first time, I harvest olives from my own two trees, with the help of my wonderful neighbors, Chris and Anemie.

Note: I wrote this post in the fall of 2021, but it’s olive season again here in my part of Portugal and I am out picking olives with many of my neighbors. I love the way people follow the seasons, performing the age-old tasks that bring them together. Portuguese olive oil isn’t well known in the US or Britain, but it is superb, and in my little corner of Portugal, it is made with love.

October in my part of Portugal means Olives. This year the trillion or so olive trees that cover the hillsides and valleys around my village are loaded with olives. Great news for all my neighbors because last year there was nary an olive to be harvested.

I too have become obsessed with these little nuggets that yield valuable oil and tasty treats. I only have two trees on my land but the amount of olives hanging on those branches convinced me they needed harvesting. I made an agreement with one set of neighbors, to bring my olives over to their place. They have enough trees to yield the 400 kilos of olives to warrant their own pressing at the local “lager” or olive press. This means, they can make an appointment to bring their harvest and get the oil from their very own olives.

If you don’t have a big enough yield for your own pressing, you just take them along to the lager and they get mixed in with others. The oil you get is a mixture of your own olives and that from everyone else.

Olive picking in some parts of Portugal is highly mechanised. But here in the central part of the country, it is still a very labor intensive job, done by hand. It’s an opportunity for friends and neighbors to come together and spend a few hours or days working at this basic task.

First you spread out a huge green net to catch the fruit. Then, someone goes up the ladder into the tree, cuts branches and tosses them down to the picking crew on the ground. You can strip the olives from the branch either by hand or a small plastic rake. Once the tree is picked clean, the crew gathers up the big green net and dumps the olives into a large plastic bucket. It reminded me of documentaries I’ve seen about fishermen collecting their catch in the old days.

This year, my Belgian neighbors helped me pick, I also helped some British friends and neighbors pick and clean their olives. It’s a community affair and I love it!

The next step is to run the harvested olives through a machine called a “Lena” (leena) to remove any remaining twigs and stems. It’s basically a big drum with a hopper on top, a shaker mechanism and a fan that blows the cleaned olives through to a chute where they drop into a big bucket. The cleaned olives are then stored in heavy plastic backs until they can be taken to the olive press.

Olives harvested from my trees, my neighbours German workaday volunteers operate the Lena machine to clean the olives, and I beam at the cleaned olives in the big purple vat. Behind me are plastic bags of olives waiting to go to the press.

Exploring Portugal by bicycle: Part 2

The 50-km route on our second day took us through breathtaking countryside with views of vineyards, terraced hillsides and unique cornstacks.

The morning of Sept. 29, the second day of our tour dawned bright and clear in Monçao. Our companion Chris wasn’t feeling well so he decided to take a bus to Valença where he could get a train back to Viana do Castelo.

Graham and I were going to continue, but first he had to do some minor repairs on my bike rack. Many kilometers of riding over bone-shaking cobblestones had loosened a couple of the bolts. That fixed, we set off on the 50-kilometer route to our destination in Arcos de Valdevez.

Tough climb, fabulous scenery

I knew the second day would be tough because we had to climb over a mountain pass. Actually it was just a large hill by Rocky Mountain standards. The first few Kms were relatively flat, but we had a hair-raising moment when an oncoming van decided to overtake a car and missed Graham by about a foot. My heart was in my mouth as I saw it fast approaching him, envisioning a gruesome scene at the roadside.

All was well however and we pedaled on. By late morning we reached the top of the pass and stopped at a cafe for some caffeine and a small, but very welcome cold beer. The proprietor seemed grumpy to start with but gradually warmed up and shared his local knowledge.

As we continued, with a blissful 3.5-km descent, we had a breathtaking view of the terraced hillsides where farmers grew grapevines and corn. We saw many of the strange corn-stacks that are typical in that part of Portugal and several of the beautiful, caramel-colored longhorn cattle.

This lovely lady was standing right by the fence and was very happy to see us.

The descent brought us to the village of Sistelo, in an area known as the “Tibet” of Portugal. Among the cluster of stone buildings in the narrow streets there are many restaurants and lots of tourists, even in late September. It’s easy to see why. The area is stunningly beautiful and there are numerous well-marked walking trails.

Gruelling path

We followed a trail marked as an “Ecovia” for walking and cycling. Alas, it was better-suited to hikers as we had to wheel our bikes up and down many steep slopes while navigating around big rocks. Meanwhile, the afternoon was heating up. It took us an hour to cover four kilometers of this terrain.

Finally, we found a spot where we could get back onto a road but we still had about 20 kms to go. Graham had hoped the last section would be fairly flat and close to a river. He loves to take a plunge in the Portuguese rivers. However, the road continued to undulate and there was no convenient point to access the river.

An espigideiro, a structure used for storing corn. They are typical in northern Portugal and the Spanish province of Galicia.

By the time we finally reached Arcos de Valdevez at about 5:30, I was exhausted. I’ve done a lot of cycling over the past 20 years, including two five-day tours in Colorado and several 100-mile (century) rides. But that day was the toughest day’s cycling I ever remember.

The Strava image of our second day. (I forgot to start recording until after we had ridden almost 10 km.)

Follow my blog for Part 3 of the bike tour and to learn more about daily life in Portugal.

Epic bike tour in northern Portugal: part 1

My bike tour buddies: Graham, (center) and Chris (right) at the start of our ride near Viana do Castelo, on Thursday, Sept. 28.

As promised, I will recount here the amazing adventures of my bike tour in northern Portugal. I had planned to make the blog posts each evening during the tour, but I have to admit, I was too knackered. (That is a British slang word that means absolutely exhausted.)

So, here we go. On Wednesday, Sept. 27, I drove up to my friend Graham’s home near Montemor-o-Velho, where I we loaded both our bikes and gear into his car. We set off for Viana do Castelo about 2.5 hours north where we met with Chris, the third participant in this journey. We stayed at a wonderful Air BnB apartment in a complex called Chafe Amorosa (hmm sounds interesting). Then drove through Viana do Castelo the next morning and parked near the coast.

VdC is a charming city and port in northern Portugal. It is also on the way for pilgrims walking the coastal route to Santiago de Compostela, in Spain.

We set out about 10:30, Thursday, Sept. 28 on the 75 kilometer first leg of the three day trip. For the first few hours the Atlantic ocean was on our left, with waves rolling and crashing in over the rocks as we pedaled. We passed many pilgrims and spent some time talking to a pair of Australian bike tourists, Ken and Roslyn.

We spent the first couple of hours riding along wooden boardwalk and gravel trails with the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean on our left.

German pilgrims, Angelica and Veema who were walking the coastal route of the Portuguese Caminho Santago de Compostela.

We had a lot of confusion trying to figure out whether we should ride along the Caminho de Santiago, or the Eurovelo bike trail. A lot of the route took us on roads paved with bone-shaking cobblestones.

We had to stop by this group of goats while Graham tightened all the bolts on my bike rack that had been loosened by riding over cobblestones.

We reached the town of Caminha at about 12:30. The town is at the mouth of the large Rio Minho which forms the border between Portugal and Spain. We followed trails along the course of the river for another 20+ kilometers to Valença. This is a border town on the inland route of the Caminho de Santiago. A bridge from Valença takes visitors across the Minho into Spain. We continued following the river, passing mile after mile of plantations of kiwi fruit!

Our destination for the first night was Monçao, another small town on the Rio Minho. During the last 15 kilometers of the ride, our companion Chris started having a lot of knee pain. By the time we finally reached our hotel just before 6 p.m., he had decided he could not continue for another day. So, we had a great meal together that evening and enjoyed some of the very special local wine, which is a slightly sparkling red served very cold!

Our first day route, 75 kms from Viana do Castelo to Monçao.

Follow my blog to learn about the next two days of our ride!

Coming soon: bike tour in northern Portugal

Chris and Graham will be my cycling companions on the 3-day tour.

Tomorrow I am heading off for a very exciting adventure. I will be doing a 170-kilometer three-day cycling tour in northern Portugal. I will be riding with two guys with whom I have been doing rides over the past 18 months. Chris is an American , and Graham the tour organizer, is an Engishman .

We will rendezvous in Viana do Castelo where we will stay the first night. On Thursday we will start our ride. The first day will be a 75-kilometer stage taking us north to Caminha then east along the Rio Minho past Valenca to Moncao. We will be riding right along the border with the Galicia region of Spain.

I will be making blog posts along the way, so stay tuned!

Bike riding in the hills of central Portugal

Grape harvesting in Portugal, a labor of love

Volunteers from the local community turn out to help with the grape harvest.

September is a busy month in Portugal. It’s the time for the annual “vindima” (pronounced vin-deema), the grape harvest. Traveling around this small country you will see vineyards everywhere. Most of them are devoted to serious commercial wine production. Portugal is a major wine producing country. And of course the Douro valley near Porto produces the grapes that are used in making the world famous Port wines.

However, plenty of regular ordinary folks have their own little vineyards and when it comes to picking those grapes they depend on a lot of volunteers. I’ve helped out a couple of times since I moved to central Portugal and it’s an unforgettable experience.

I was told to be at a meeting spot at eight o’clock one September morning. Neighbors bundled me into their van and we drove to the first of the vineyards, located in a steep south-facing valley. I was handed a pair of clippers and a bucket and joined the other volunteers working our way through the rows of grape vines. When our buckets were full, we waved and a big burly guy came up and dumped it into a much bigger bucket. He hefted it onto his broad shoulders and carried it down to the truck.

No work without a feast

There were about thirty volunteers; men and women and children, even a couple of dogs. The dogs just supervised. We worked all morning, moving from one vineyard to another in different parts of he valley. We finished the last by early afternoon, then we all headed back to the home of the vineyard owner for our well-deserved feast. They had laid out long tables in their basement “adega”, or wine cellar. There was much food, much wine, music and lots of jolly conversation! Amazing what a little wine will do for your ability to speak a foreign language!

Do you give a fig?

Grapes are just one of the many fruits that are abundant at this time of year in Portugal. Fig trees are also everywhere. Most of them have the dark purple colored fruit, but there are also the pale green figs which are called “pingo de mel” or honey drop figs, in Portuguese. I have a huge fig tree on my land and have made lots of jam. I’ve also tried drying the figs. If you lay them out on a tray in the sun it can take around a week, but the result is delicious.

Walnuts are also in season. The other evening I saw my neighbors out with ladders and long poles knocking the walnuts off the tree. My dog loves to find them in the grass along the street. She bites off the outer green covering and crunches on the nut. I’m not sure they are good for her, but she is insistent.

And the fruit goes on: pomegranates, persimmons, pears, peaches. And in October, it will be olive season!

Follow my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal. And check out my novel “The Power of Rain” on Amazon.

How a Portuguese dog found a home, love and a bread roll every morning

A couple of weeks ago I made a post about my dog Divina and I mentioned that she had been abandoned in my village in central Portugal. I thought I would let her “tell” her own story.

Divina: “I don’t remember much about where I was born or lived when I was a puppy. The only thing I do recall is that some ugly brute had his way with me when I was a teenager and I had a litter of puppies. I had just weaned them when they were taken away from me. I never saw them again because I was put in a van and taken to another village and dumped out on the street.”

“I spent several days wandering the village, trying to find food around the big green rubbish bin and sleeping on doorsteps. One day I followed another dog and his owners when they went to visit a new neighbor. As soon as the door of the house opened, I ran in. Unfortunately, the woman of the house didn’t let me stay. But the next day, I was out looking for food when the woman whose house I had visited, called me and invited me to come for some bread and milk. That was how I found my new home!”

Divina: “I soon made myself comfortable, sleeping on this very lovely sofa. Much better than a doorstep outside.”

Rosalie: “When I moved to Portugal in 2019, I had no plans to have a dog. It had been many years since my last dog passed away. In the meantime, I had become a cat convert. Sadly, I couldn’t bring my two cat ladies, Chatsie and Bodie because they were aged 12 and 13 and never traveled. A twice-yearly trip just three miles to the vet really upset them. Putting them through a 20-plus-hour trip on several airplanes would have been too traumatic. I found a very comfy home for them with a neighbor and they were just fine!”

The Universe provides its own surprises

Rosalie: “After traveling for two months I finally moved into my own house in July and immediately thought about getting a cat. However, the universe had other ideas for me. In the four years since the day I first welcomed Divina into my home, I have become very fond of her. She has me well-trained. I take her for several walks a day, give her treats, and –against my better judgment–let her sleep on the sofa.”

Morning delights

As I mentioned in a previous blog post, my village is lucky enough to have not one, but TWO bakery vans go through it each morning. You just put change in a bag and hang it on your gate or door and the bread lady (Padeira) will deliver the bread rolls of your choice!

In the last two months, Divina has fallen in love with one of the bread ladies, Paula, who now stops and gives her part of a roll each time we meet her on our morning walk. Divina recognizes Paula’s unmarked white van and pulls at the leash straining to go say hello and get her second breakfast. They have quite the relationship.

What can I say, it’s a dog’s life!

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Exploring historic sites in Portugal

Bridge over the swimming area beside Lousã castle in central Portugal.

Everywhere you turn in Portugal you are surrounded by ancient buildings that serve as reminders of this country’s rich history. That history includes centuries under Roman occupation, several hundred years under the Moors, and a period during which a Spanish king (Philip II) ruled over both countries on the Iberian peninsula.

Many of the castles were built by the Templars, an organization started by knights during the middle ages. Initially, they acted as protectors for pilgrims traveling to Jerusalem. Gradually they expanded their services to include a primitive form of banking, whereby pilgrims could get money along the way without the risk of having to carry large amounts of cash with them.

Castles such as the castle at Lousã in central Portugal were also defensive in nature. It stands atop a hill about two kilometers from the town of Lousã e Vilarinho. Built in the second half of the 11th century it dominates the landscape over the River Arouce. It is also called the Castle of Arouce.

The castle at Lousã, also known as the Castle of Arouce because of the nearby river. The sloping walls at the base were engineered to repel attacks. The castle is one of many defensive structures built the the Knights Templar organization during the Middle Ages.

More than just a castle

There are a lot of castles all over Portugal, but each one has something unique. At Lousã, there is a gorgeous river beach which is hugely popular during the summer. This river beach is different from many others which are usually found on a sandy bend in a river. The one at Lousã is more like a natural swimming pool surrounded by stone walls.

Swimmers cool off in the river beach beneath Lousã castle.

And if you plan on a day at this river beach, you can also enjoy a wonderful meal at the restaurant perched on a hill overlooking the water. O Burgo has an excellent menu with a wide variety of meat, fish, and chicken dishes, a wonderful house red wine, and superb service. You have to make a reservation, it’s a little pricy, but well worth it.

O Burgo restaurant at Lousã castle has been serving great meals since 1989.

Hiking opportunities

There are numerous trails leading from the area of the castle. If you reach the castle, you are at the launching point for a tour of some of the “Schist Villages.” In Portuguese they are called “Aldeias de Xisto”. This is a series of 27 remote villages where the houses are built of a distinctive type of stone known as “schist.” Visiting them is like stepping back in time.

Many of them were almost completely abandoned in the 20th century. But a project started in 2000 between the Portuguese government and the European Union has enabled them to be rebuilt and gradually repopulated. The area is very popular for hiking trails.

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Exploring the wonders of Portugal

The 516-meter long Arouca Bridge in northern Portugal is one of the longest pedestrian suspension bridges in the world.

Everywhere you go in Portugal there are reminders of its richly diverse history. It has ancient Roman ruins, medieval castles built to withstand assaults from Muslim or Spanish invaders, and modern marvels like the Arouca Bridge. Opened in 2021, and spanning 516-meters, or (1,692 ft), it is one of the longest pedestrian suspension bridges in the world.

I was lucky enough to visit the bridge this week with a group led by Jean-Remi Chapelon who runs the adventure company My-Green-Break. The sight of this awesome structure is enough to make anyone with a hint of vertigo pretty nervous!

However, the charming young guide who greeted our group assured us that it is VERY stable! Located in the mountainous Aveiro District of northern Portugal, it connects two sides of a steep valley over the Rio Paiva. At the midpoint, the drop is 175 meters, or about the same height as a fifty-story building. Our guide said tests showed it could support nearly two thousand people, but the number of those allowed to cross at any one time is limited to between 35 to 50 people. You have to buy tickets and you are assigned a crossing time.

Before we crossed, my group hiked along a path that led down to the river. Part of the path is on a wooden walkway called a “passadiço”. You find these all over Portugal. They are built beside rivers or even over the dunes beside the ocean. At the midpoint of our 7-kilometer hike, we stopped to eat a picnic beside a river beach where many people were swimming. River beaches, or “praias fluviais” are popular in Portugal.

Our guide. The bridge was built at a cost of 2.3 million euro. The money came from the local government and the European Union.

As we crossed we could feel slight movement beneath us, and it became very windy. But I never felt unsafe. The view over the valley and down to the river below was spectacular! Well worth the trip.

Follow my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal. And check out my website, RosalieRayburn.com

A Portuguese dog’s tale

Divina, the little dog who was abandoned in my village and adopted me as her person. She has been a great companion.

Anybody who has been following my blog since I moved to Portugal in 2019 will have read about Divina. She is the little Podengo-mix dog who was abandoned in my village around the time I moved into my house. She showed up at my door and I offered her some food and she decided to adopt me.

It had been many years since I had a dog. I really didn’t have plans to welcome another one into my life. I’d had a couple of cats for several years and sadly could not bring them with me because I was “of no fixed abode” when I arrived in Portugal. Instead, I found them a cushy home with a lovely neighbor who wanted a couple of middle-aged felines.

But this little Podengo-mix made herself right at home in my house, so I didn’t have much choice. There are too many abandoned dogs in Portugal!

In the four years since she has become my constant companion. She gets me up in the morning with the sound of her ears flapping as she wakes up. And she gets me out of the house early because she loves her morning walk!

About that walk

I am lucky enough to live in a village that is on the delivery route of two different bakeries! That’s right. A van drives by my house six mornings a week and all I have to do is put a bag on my gate with the right change and the delightful “bread lady” puts the fresh bread rolls into the bag. Yum!

The bread van that comes by my gate every morning delivers rolls. It comes from a bakery called “Pecado Divino”. Loosely translated it would mean “sinfully delicious”. I liked the idea so much that I used it to name my dog. Hence “Divina.”

The bakery that delivers the rolls I like is called “Pecado Divino” which translates as “Divine Sin.” That may sound a little odd in English, but if you think of the way we often describe eating chocolates or delicious cakes we say, “sinfully delicious.” I loved the idea so much that I adapted it to name my dog, calling her Divina. (She is feminine after all! You have to follow grammatical rules.)

It so happens that there is another bread van. I don’t know the name of that bakery because the van is plain white. Now a lot of plain white vans go through my village every day. They pass by while I am walking Divina down the main street. But she has come to recognize THE white van from the bakery. How? Because Divina and I happened to walk by one fine morning when that bread lady was stopped outside a house picking rolls from the back of the van and putting them into the bag hanging on the gate. The very nice lady saw Divina’s soft brown eyes and wagging tail and pulled off a chunk of bread and gave it to her.

So now, every time that van comes through the village when we are coming back for our walk Divina immediately recognizes it and strains on the leash to go say hello. Of course, the very nice bread lady recognizes her too.

Ah, the life of my little Portuguese dog!

Follow my blog to hear more about my adventures living in a Portuguese village. And check out my novel “The Power of Rain” on Amazon and my website: RosalieRayburn.com