Five weeks of family, friends and fun

My table at the Tucson Festival of Books, March 15

I am finally back in Portugal after a five-week trip to the US which took me from the snowy hinterlands of far upstate New York, to the sizzling deserts of Arizona, the awesome vistas of the Grand Canyon and the familiar streets of Albuquerque, New Mexico, my old home.

I timed the trip so that I could visit the Tucson Festival of Books in mid-March, where I was scheduled to showcase my “Digger Doyle Mystery Series.”

But my first priority was to spend time with my son, Patrick, and granddaughters, Annika (6) and MJ (4 1/2). Patrick is in the army and they live at Fort Drum, about ninety minutes drive north of Syracuse, New York.

Since I live several thousand miles away, I only get to see the grandchildren once a year. Each time, I notice how much they have grown and matured. As they become older, my relationship with the two girls has deepened, and I treasure these moments.

A hug on the couch with MJ, left, and Annika, right.

Highlights of my visit with Patrick´s family, included a trip to Dry Hill Ski center where the girls and my daughter-in-law, Laci, had a lesson while I tested my skiing muscle memory on the bunny hill. Meanwhile, Patrick was fearlessly whizzing down the slopes like he and I used to when he was growing up in New Mexico.

Although I used to love skiing, I hadn’t tried it since early 2019.

Heading west

After 18 wonderful days with the family, I flew from Syracuse to Albuquerque. During the couple of days I spent there, I was able to go dance swing and two-step at a pub where they had live music. Dancing is something I really miss in Portugal.

My friend Louise, who lives in Santa Fe, then picked me up in Albuquerque and drove us to Tucson. It was thrilling to see the vast high desert scenery as we headed south, then west toward Arizona. We made a lunch stop in Hatch, NM, home of the famous (and incomparable) chile that bears its name.

Squinting into the sun in front of a sign in Hatch. By the way, the spicy vegetable is always spelled “chile” in New Mexico.

Book fest in Tucson

The Tucson Festival of Books is one of the biggest events of its kind in the US. Held since 2009, it draws hundreds of authors and an estimated 100,000 attendees to the University of Arizona Mall each March.

It is an overwhelming affair. Hundreds of tents line the mall and I was glad to have a day to scope it out and talk to other authors. My slot was on the morning of the second day. I was in the “Indie Author” tent, along with about 18 other self-published authors of books in all genres. Since we were all vying for attention from the passing crowds, I was happy to sell eight books. My neighbor at the next table sold two.

Louise and I also discovered that Tucson has a lively and diverse selection of restaurants and brew pubs!

Onward to experience the Grand Canyon

During my more than 22 years living in Albuquerque, New Mexico, I visited many wonders of the Southwest, including Monument Valley, Mesa Verde, Arches National Park, Chaco Canyon and Canyon de Chelly. But I never made it to the big one …..the Grand Canyon.

On my visit to NM last year, I mentioned this to my friend Louise and she vowed that we would go there together if I made it to the Southwest in 2026. Hence, the trip. Suffice to say, it was every bit as impressive as I had heard, a deeply spiritual experience to be there. I will let the pictures speak for themselves.

Views of the Grand Canyon from the south rim.

From left: Elk wander around fearlessly. Mules carry visitors, a river is visible at the bottom of the canyon roughly a mile below the lookout point.

Back to New Mexico, the Land of Enchantment

The Land of Enchantment is the slogan the New Mexico Tourism department has used for decades to market the state. Although it sounds corny, I have to agree that New Mexico holds a special place in my heart. I was lucky enough to spend a few days in Albuquerque visiting many old friends, indulging my love of New Mexico dishes like green chile stew and breakfast burritos, something I cannot find in Portugal. But of course, those things are unique to NM.

I met up for a Sunday morning walk with four former colleagues from the Albuquerque Journal. From left: Ellen Marks, Rosalie Rayburn, Cathryn Cunningham, Helen Taylor and Jennifer Swanson.

I held a book signing event at Books on the Bosque book store in Albuquerque.

I celebrated my birthday going horseback riding with my friend Mary Ann Ende outside of Albuquerque.

All in all, it was a holiday to remember. Thank you to my family and friends who made it such a special experience.

Follow my blog to learn about every day in Portugal. Check out my website, RosalieRayburn.com to get one of my Digger Doyle Mysteries.

Sun brings relief to storm-battered Portugal

Valentine’s Day brought a rare sight. The return of the sun in Portugal which has endured weeks of relentless downpours. The storms have brought an estimated 10 inches to 15 inches of rain since January 1, nearly twice the normal amount.

The rains came at the worst possible time. The country was already reeling from the effects storm, Kristin, which ripped across a wide swath of central Portugal on January 28. The storm´s hurricane-force winds uprooted thousands of trees, blew off roofs and cut off electricity, internet communications and water to hundreds of thousands of residents.

The next storms, Leonardo and Marta, added insult to injury. Rivers burst their banks, flooding towns and cities, swamping roads and causing landslides. On Feb. 11, a major road artery near Coimbra, Portugal´s third largest city, collapsed. To date, there have been 16 storm-related deaths and more than 3,000 people have been evacuated from their homes.

Cleanup efforts underway

Crews have been out in force repairing storm damage but the work is far from over. Many rural areas remained without electricity and internet communications for more than two weeks after Kristin hit. A friend of mine who lives alone in a small village, was without power for more than 17 days. Fortunately, she had a wood-burning stove for heat and bottled gas for cooking. Friends whose power was restored more quickly, let her shower and charge her phone at their place.

Parks in the town of Tomar, central Portugal, where I live, were full of uprooted trees. City workers have been busy with chainsaws, and heavy equipment to remove them.

Police tape keeps onlookers away from where crews are cutting up the trunk of an uprooted tree in a park in Tomar, central Portugal.

Although the weather forecast for the next few days looks rain-free, the rivers remain dangerously high. The normally placid Rio Nabão in Tomar, is a rushing torrent. Sandbags remain wedged against doorways along a canal that flanks the river. Elsewhere, the situation remains dire. Vast areas around Coimbra and further south, near the city of Santarem, are under water. There have been calls for Portugal to reevaluate its responses to climate change.

The Rio Nabão is flowing several feet above its normal level.

Sandbags wedged against the entrance to a walkway over a canal in Tomar.

Subscribe to my blog to learn all about daily life in Portugal. Visit my website to get a copy of my latest Digger Doyle mystery.

Storm Kristin wreaks havoc in Portugal

My car miraculously escaped being crushed by two trees uprooted by the near hurricane-force winds of storm Kristin which hit Portugal January 27.

A massive storm ripped across Portugal and Spain on the night of January 27. Near hurricane-force winds uprooted tens of thousands of trees, snapped concrete power poles like matchsticks and blew off roofs. The storm’s path covered a wide swath of central Portugal, leaving up to a million people without electricity, and internet communications. Many in rural areas were also without water. At least six people died in storm-related incidents. Official sources quoted by Reuters estimated the cost of the damage at four billion euros or $4.7 billion.

That was ten days ago, and many in rural areas still have no power, or water. My village was without electricity for six days. Luckily, a friend in the nearby town of Tomar, where power was quickly restored, offered her apartment as a “refugee center” where friends could charge their phones and contact relatives.

Storm Kristin, packing winds of up to 140 kph (90 mph) was the latest, and worst, in a string of heavy rain and wind events to hit the Iberian Peninsula since the beginning of December. Everywhere, the ground was already sodden. As more heavy rain struck, rivers burst their banks and flooded towns like Alcaçer do Sal, south of Lisbon. Further north, flooding cut off road access to towns like Montemor-O-Velho, west of Coimbra.

Access to the small historic town of Montemor-O-Velho has nearly been cut off by flood waters.

Crisis brings neighbors together

The severity of the storm, and the extent of the damage, brought out the best of the Portuguese spirit. In the village where I was staying, many people who work remotely, had no internet. By late morning, men from my street were out with chainsaws, cutting the trees that blocked the road. Women and children were gathering the cut branches and loading them into another neighbor’s pickup truck. One woman laughingly commented, “We have plenty of wood for our barbecues!”

Neighbors quickly came together to cut up the fallen trees to clear the street.

Uprooted trees lay along several main streets in the historic town of Tomar. The town’s picturesque parks by the Rio Nabão were transformed into a landscape of jagged roots and downed tree trunks.

Fortunately, these hugh uprooted trees fell alongside the main street instead of across it or into the apartment building.

Another storm may postpone elections

As though the storms of January and the devastation of Kristin weren’t enough, another tempest, Leonardo, is already striking the country, bringing more heavy rainand causing more damage. To complicate matters, the second round of the Portuguese presidential election is scheduled Sunday, Feb. 8. The first round, on Jan. 18 failed to yield an outright winner, so the top two vote-getters, António José Seguro and Andre Ventura, are vying for the largely ceremonial job. Ventura has called for the election to be postponed because of the storms.

Closer to home, residents of Tomar are anxiously monitoring the river level. It is higher than I have ever seen it. The usually gently flowing waters are now a raging torrent. A park beside the river where I used to walk my dog, is now 80 percent under water.

Yesterday, police and army units were distributing sandbags to businesses, stores and residents along the canal that carries river overflow. The water level in the canal is less than a foot (30 cm) from the edge.

My own home in the historic district is about 200 meters from the canal. Although the police officer directing the crew told me he didn’t think a flood could reach my door, I’m not taking any chances. I went out and bought five 5 kg bags of cat sand and have wedged them against my front door. Sometimes you have to get creative!

Subscribe to my blog to get news about daily life in Portugal. And check out my website: RosalieRayburn.com.

What better than hot soup on a chilly winter day

The prospect of a steaming bowl of home-made soup is irresistible on a damp Sunday in January. Soup festivals are an annual tradition in towns and villages all over Portugal. In the village where I lived for five years, people flocked to the local parish hall to sample the mouth-watering soups and enjoy good cheer.

The events are all volunteer-run by community members. Volunteers set up the tables, issue the tickets, and, of course, make the soups. Festival goers pay just 10 euros for the privilege of trying as many soups as they can eat. The entry fee includes a traditional-style soup bowl created for the event. Many people collect them over the years.

The 10 euro festival ticket includes a soup bowl unique to the event.

The 2026 Festival das Sopas in my village sported nearly twenty different kinds of soup. Most of the soup chefs were Portuguese, but foreigners living in the community participated too. They included a woman from Holland, an American from Louisiana who made gumbo, a woman from South Africa, and a couple from the UK who made French Onion soup.

People lined up well before the doors opened. By the time the event was in full swing, I estimated a crowd of more than 200 people was busily sampling bowl after bowl. A friend of mine said she ate eight bowls! I was stuffed after five.

Some of the most popular Portuguese soups are the Sopa da Pedra and Caldo Verde. The Sopa da Pedra, or stone soup, is usually made with kidney beans, the spicy Portuguese chouriço sausage, pork ribs, bacon, potatoes, onion, and garlic. Caldo Verde is a kale soup. Check out these links to find the recipes.

Soup with a legend

Sopa da Pedra has a story behind it, a common theme found in several cultures. Supposedly, a group of hungry travelers stopped near a village. They had no food, but they had a large pot that they filled with water from a nearby stream. They put a stone in the pot and set it over a fire to boil. Curious passersby asked what they were doing. The travelers answered that they were making stone soup, but they needed a few more ingredients. Some people donated carrots, others peas, cabbage, and so on. Pretty soon, they had a rich, hearty soup that everyone enjoyed.

Of course, the work of the volunteer chefs is recognized. Not just by the happy smiles of those who line up to taste their soups, they also get a plaque to thank them for their hard work.

Volunteer chefs display the recognition awards for the 2026 Festival das Sopas.

Subscribe to my blog to learn about daily life in Portugal. And discover my Digger Doyle mystery series.

Preparing for my first major event, the Tucson Festival of Books

The Tucson Festival of Books in mid-March is one of the biggest book events of its kind in the US.

In just a few weeks I will be headed to the Tucson Festival of Books, one of the biggest book fairs in the US. Held each year on the campus of the University of Arizona, the festival attracts 300 to 400 authors and tens of thousands of visitors. This year, it will be March 14 to 15.

At the event, I will showcase my latest New Mexico-based mystery novel, Windswept. This is the third book in my Digger Doyle mystery series, featuring my intrepid reporter/detective, Elizabeth “Digger” Doyle.

Windswept: One Dead Politician. One Missing Girl

Windswept is a murder mystery set in New Mexico.

In Windswept, reporter-turned-detective Digger Doyle confronts political power, buried crimes, and a cold case that refuses to stay buried.

Working for a scrappy online newspaper in Albuquerque, Digger travels to a press conference at a remote wind farm in eastern New Mexico. The featured speaker is state representative Carmen Lawlor, a controversial figure whose efforts to block new oil and gas drilling have earned her dangerous enemies. The press conference never happens. Lawlor is found dead at the base of a wind turbine. Was it an accident—or murder?

A veteran radio reporter hints that Lawlor’s death may be tied to a decades-old mystery: the disappearance of eighteen-year-old Julie Mondragon in the desolate Malpais volcanic wilderness. Before she can explain more, the reporter herself is dead. The message is clear—someone wants the past to stay hidden.

Featured on BookSirens

I am also excited to announce that BookSirens is featuring “The Sunshine Solution“, the second book in the Digger Doyle series, in its murder mystery selections for January. BookSirens is a website where readers can discover new books and write reviews. Here is a taster of the plot.

A fearless reporter, a passionate activist, and a battle against corruption in the Southwest.

A routine press conference shouldn’t feel dangerous—but investigative reporter Digger Doyle knows when something doesn’t add up.

Now working inside New Mexico state government, Digger uncovers a solar project hiding more than green promises. Following a trail of money and deception from Chaco Canyon to the corridors of Santa Fe power, she stumbles onto a conspiracy engineered to destroy a man’s political career.

As the lies tighten, Digger must decide how far she’s willing to go for the truth—and who will pay the price when it comes out.

BookSirens is featuring The Sunshine Solution in its Mystery books for January.

Here is the link where you can get a copy of the book. https://booksirens.com/bundle/women-sleuths-arcs-you-ll-love-january-2026-batch/TQFFHJB

What compels me to write?

I wanted to write books ever since I was about eight years old. As soon as I could read, I devoured the Nancy Drew and Hardy Boys mysteries. I read the early sci-fi books about Tom Swift and his various escapades. When I was in third grade, and my brother was in first, I used to tell him stories as we walked to school. The stories were about a battle between two tribes of fictional space creatures, the Findons and the Cordons. I progressed to becoming a journalist for twenty-five years. Now retired, I have written the three Digger Doyle mystery novels inspired by my experiences as a reporter for the Albuquerque Journal in New Mexico.

Every author aspires to be a best seller. Well, maybe not, but every writer certainly hopes many, many people will enjoy reading their books. I belong to a writing group and at a recent meeting we asked each other why we write. Every one of us said we write because it is a compulsion, because it is as much a part of us as breathing.

So, I am hoping you will discover Digger’s world, where she fights to expose corrupt politicians, shady developers, and falls in love! Take a look at my website, RosalieRayburn.com

Pictures of my three Digger Doyle mystery books — My three Digger Doyle Mystery novels are available on Amazon.

The Tucson Festival of Books takes place March 14-15 at the University of Arizona campus.

This is the banner I plan to display at the Tucson Festival of Books in March.

A few useful tips about life in Portugal (Copy)

Cristo Rei statue overlooks city of Lisbon

Rayburn/Lisbon skylie — The red tiled roofs of Lisbon’s Alfama district look out over the Tejo river.

Portugal has become a much sought-after destination for many US retirees. I have to admit that I fell in love with the country when I visited it for the first time in June 2011. I moved here in 2019 and I am still in love!

For anyone considering the move, I always advise making a reconnaissance trip to the country. You can do all the research you like online, but nothing beats an in-person experience. One of the most wonderful things about Portugal is the interactions with individual Portuguese people. You will find so much kindness and charm.

That said, here are some of the things that people ask about when they post questions on the numerous Facebook groups that cater to expat interests.

Cost of Living

Portugal is much less expensive than most other countries in western Europe. For some detailed comparisons about daily living expenses, check out: https://internationalliving.com/countries/portugal/cost-living-portugal/

Climate

It may come as news to some, but Portugal is not a mediterranean country. The western and southern coastlines are on the Atlantic Ocean. The Mediterranean sea ends at the straits of Gibraltar.

Still, Portugal’s climate is mild in winter. In the center and north of Portugal it can rain a lot during the autumn and winter. The weather is warm to hot in summer, the further south you go, the hotter and drier it is. For details, check out: https://www.expatica.com/pt/moving/about/portugal-climate-100067/

Cuisine

Portuguese food tends to be unsophisticated compared to, say French cuisine. But the ingredients are usually fresh and the cooking is honest. They do grilled meats, chicken and fish very well. Sardines and cod fish are hugely popular. The country produces excellent olive oil and lots of good quality inexpensive wine. And Port of course! For details on Portuguese food, check out: https://www.portugal.com/food-drink/10-best-portuguese-foods-and-dishes/

So start researching your journey! Follow my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal.

An array of snacks laid out before a Christmas Eve dinner in Portugal.

Beginning to feel like Christmas in Portugal, lights, music, festivities

Christmas lights in Lisbon — Festive lights and throngs of people reflect the lively Christmas spirit in the Baixa area of Lisbon.

Christmas spirit is everywhere in Portugal in December. Markets in cities and towns sell handmade specialties and decorations. Churches and public places stage nativity scenes called “presépio” in Portuguese, and the streets of my small town of Tomar, ring with Christmas music.

December began with the usual wet weather. Rain in Portugal often falls in torrents and many people complain of dampness in their homes. But the Christmas spirit survives. The town of Tomar, near where I live in central Portugal, always sets up a mini-winter wonderland in the Praça da Republic, its main square. A couple of years ago tiny train chugged around a snowy landscape, and a festive carousel twirled round while several market stalls sold artisanal items, sweets and seasonal drinks. This year, the decorations are more modest, just a few bouncy castles and the artisanal stalls.

Of football and families

My Portuguese teacher recently told me Portugal is all about the three “Fs”, which stand for “Football, Fado and Fatima.” The first one needs no explanation to anyone who was alive during the last month when the World Cup dominated the sport world. Football (soccer in the US) is practically a national religion in Portugal. When I watch the evening news on SIC Noticias, there is about five minutes of spot news coverage before it switches to interviews and discussions about leading Portuguese teams such as Benfica. And of course, Cristiano Ronaldo, is pretty much a national hero.

Fado is the traditional Portuguese singing style, which has a slightly mournful sound meant to convey a sense of longing. Fatima is a pilgrimage site in central Portugal where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to three shepherd children in 1917.

There should also be a fourth “F” for Family. The family is extremely important to Portuguese people especially at Christmastime. On Christmas Eve, families get together to celebrate with a meal called “consoada”. The tradition is that they abstain from meat, so the main dish is salted cod “bacalhau.”One favorite recipe for the cod is “bacalhau com broa” in which a bread made from corn meal is used along with sliced onions and potatoes. This is often served with boiled potatoes and cabbage. In the north of the country, close to the border with the Spanish province of Galicia, octopus is a traditional dish.

On December 25, Portuguese families in typically resourceful fashion, use the leftovers from the consoada meal to make a dish known as “roupa velha” or “old clothes. I remember a similar sounding dish called “ropa vieja” on the menu in a Cuban restaurant in Miami. When I went to order it, I made a critical mistake, calling it “ropa sucia” which means “dirty clothes. Luckily the waiter understood what I wanted.

Sweets and other traditions

Portugal has wonderful bakeries where you can always find a tempting display of sweet pastries. Stores everywhere at Christmastime sell the traditional “Bolo Rei” (king cake) which is a round, rather heavy, cake decorated with crystallized fruits in red and green.

Streets and marketplaces in towns all over the country are festooned with lights and decorations. Seasonal markets selling artisanal crafts and liqueurs are typical as well. And what would Christmas be without a nativity scene. In Portugal a nativity scene is called a “presépio”. One of the best-known presépio displays is in the town of Penela, central Portugal. Set up around the town’s hilltop castle, it features around 200 animated displays as well as an array of street entertainment and cultural activities.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, or as they say in Portugal, Feliz Natal e um prosper Ano Novo.

And of course, don’t forget to follow my blog and read my Digger Doyle Mysteries.

A giant conical yuletide tree graces the Praça do Comercio in Lisbon at Christmas time.

The new Ireland retains its history and offers great food!

The Left Bank, a former bank property, is in the center of Kilkenny.

November is not the best time to visit Ireland; after all, the country is known as the Emerald Isle because of its abundant rainfall. However, a late autumn visit provides the perfect excuse to sample the cuisine. Irish cuisine? You say, mockingly? Yes, in recent decades, the diversity of food available at hotels, cafes and pubs throughout Ireland has undergone a miraculous transformation.

The boring old boiled bacon, boiled potatoes, and boiled cabbage of old have been replaced by a dizzying array of Asian-inspired curries, salads bursting with formerly rare items like pomegranate seeds and feta cheese, and an assortment of vegetarian options, with nary a hint of boiled cabbage!

I know whereof I speak. I lived in Ireland in the 1970s and 80s, and I recently made a visit to the Auld Sod. On our first full day, we explored the city of Kilkenny and had lunch at the Left Bank. This is a truly impressive place. The former bank building has been transformed into a complex with a piano bar, patio bar, and atmospheric dining room. Very cosy on a rainy day!

Of Crystal, Saints and Kings

Our trip took us south past the thriving city of Waterford, founded in 914 by the Vikings. Those ancient Scandinavians were also responsible for settlements in Wexford and Dublin. More recently, Waterford was known for exquisite hand-cut crystal. The factory is still in the city center, although much of its production has been outsourced to Slovenia and the Czech Republic.

After a couple of nights outside Cork city, and a quick visit to the small town of Kinsale, where we had another excellent meal. The new version of the traditional fish and chips is not your newspaper-wrapped meal eaten with your fingers. No, this was a huge piece of beautifully battered cod served with a slice of lemon and crisp, crunchy chips.

Heading back northeast, we stopped in County Tipperary to see the famous landmark known as The Rock of Cashel. Set atop a hill that dominates the countryside, this cluster of medieval buildings includes a round tower, a high cross, a Romanesque chapel, a Gothic cathedral, an abbey, the Hall of the Vicars Choral, and a fifteenth-century Tower House.

It was the seat of the kings of Munster, and legend has it that St. Patrick came here to convert King Aenghus to Christianity. The High King Brian Boru was crowned at Cashel in 978 and made it his capital.

Continuing northeastward, we drove over the Wicklow mountains to the valley of Glendalough. The sixth-century monk, St. Kevin, founded a monastery here, and visitors can stroll through the grounds to see the remains of his church and six other chapels.

The Rock of Cashel, a cluster of early Medieval religious buildings. It was once home to the High King of Ireland.

Majestic gardens and a pet cemetery

Not far from Glendalough is the beautiful Powerscourt estate. It was originally the site of a thirteenth-century castle belonging to the La Poer family. In 1603, Queen Elizabeth 1 granted Richard Wingfield the castle and its lands. He became the first Viscount Powerscourt. The estate remained in the Wingfield family for 350 years. The elegant house looks out over formal gardens with statuary, a pond, fountains, and a magnificent view of the Wicklow mountains. Visitors can explore a Japanese garden and follow the trail of massive trees. One of the most memorable corners of this 47-acre estate is the pet cemetery. A gravestone is dedicated to a beloved cow who had 12 calves and gave more than 100,000 gallons of milk!

Powerscourt House was nearly destroyed by fire in 1974. It was restored by the Slazenger family.

On to Dublin’s Fair City

We spent our last two nights in Dublin, where I had been a student at Trinity College in the 1970s. Ireland has changed enormously since then. Instead of a country where jobs were scarce, and many of my classmates planned to emigrate to England or the US, Ireland is now home to many high-tech companies and a highly diverse population. On the streets, we heard people speaking Russian, Portuguese, French, Dutch, and various Asian and African languages.

Because our time was short, we opted to sight-see on the DoDublin hop-on-hop-off bus. A 24-hour pass costs 32 Euros per person. It starts in O’Connell Street and cruises the city center highlights. You can get off at Trinity College, where you can view the new exhibition of the Book of Kells, and shop on Grafton Street. Our tour was curtailed because of a visit that day by Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky. Security was heavy around the Irish parliament buildings. We enjoyed an Irish coffee at Teeling’s whiskey distillery, but skipped the tour of the Guinness brewery. The smell of Guinness wafting down the Liffey was just too familiar to me in my student days. The drivers have a great sense of humor and will sing you an Irish song like Mollie Malone.

The Campanile bell tower and Graduates’ Memorial Building at Trinity College, Dublin.

After nine busy days, our trip to Ireland came to an end, and we headed back to Portugal. One final piece of advice for visitors to Ireland. If you fly to Dublin Airport and plan to hire (rent) a car at the airport, arrive early in the day. Traffic on the M50 motorway that rings the city is HORRENDOUS! We hit it at 3.45 p.m. and spent nearly two hours crawling at walking speed to cover eight kilometers. Never again! Take an AirCoach into the city. Or use one of the numerous buses that go directly from the airport to cities all over the country.

Follow my blog to learn all about daily life in Portugal. Buy one of my mystery books at https://www.rosalierayburn.com

Buying property in Portugal, buyer beware

Homes in the historic district of Tomar. The narrow cobbled street is quaint and picturesque but makes access and parking difficult.

Moving to Portugal has suddenly become top of mind for Americans fearful of the new political climate. And why not? Portugal is a safe country with pleasant weather, friendly people and a low cost of living. What could be better?

Making the move involves a whole string of complex bureaucratic steps which I have covered in other blog posts. Once you have committed to relocating to Portugal, you will inevitably have to consider whether to rent or buy a place to live. Buying property in Portugal is a very different process from in the United States.

A key difference is that they do not have a Multiple Listing System. So, if you want to buy a property you may have to decide whether to stick with one realtor or work with several. A friend of mine said she ended up working with about ten different realtors so she could look at the places she had found in her online searches. According to her, this was because the realtors typically would not share information with each other.

In my recent experience, the realtor told me I could list my place with more than one agency, but he offered to charge me a lower commission if I would give him an “exclusive” contract. However, when I came to sign the contract, there was a sub-clause that said they would charge me a higher percentage commission if another real estate agency brought them a buyer. I wasn’t happy about that.

No disclosures, no inspections

When I sold my house in the US, I had to fill out a multi-page document listing details about the construction, water supply and any problematic details. I also had to have a home inspector go over my place with a fine tooth comb looking for deficiencies.

So, I was surprised to learn that it is not customary in Portugal to require the seller to disclose problems that they have experienced with the property. I heard a neighbor tell me gleefully that she had sold a home and didn’t let the buyers know that the roof beams were riddled with woodworm.

It is also not common to require inspections. So it can be very much a case of buyer beware!

Hire a lawyer

It is however, normal in Portugal to hire a lawyer to help with the purchase process. The lawyer can research the deed and other details to ensure that all the buildings on the property; including any sheds, barns or garages, are legal. I have heard of many cases where foreigners were eager to buy a place only to find that part of the house had been converted or an extension added without obtaining the legal permission from the local authorities. If you buy a place which has illegal additions you may have to rectify the situation before you can sell it later on. Some neighbors of mine were told they had to hire an architect and submit a plan for approval. It was expensive and time-consuming.

The lawyer will also advise you about the various taxes and fees; such as transfer tax, land registry fees and stamp duty, required as part of the purchase process. These items can add several thousand to the cost of a property, so it is important to figure them into your budget.

Some of the best known websites to use for finding property in Portugal are Idealista and this list compliled here: https://www.portugalist.com/portugal-property-websites/.

City or country

It is important to clarify what you are looking for. Do you want to live in a city close to stores and restaurants? If so, can you live in a high-rise building and walk or use public transportation? Do you prefer the country? If so, do you want to be in a village or a more isolated setting? How much land do you want? In Portugal you are responsible for clearing the land close to your dwelling to prevent fire risk. Failing to clear the land can result in fines.

Once you have found your dream home and negotiated a price, you will have to pay a deposit, or “promessa“ this is typically ten percent of the price of the home. The contract signed for the promessa typically allows around 60 days to complete the sale. And then it’s home sweet home! Good luck.

A renovated home in a tiny “shist“ village in central Portugal.

Follow my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal. Check out my website, RosalieRayburn.com for news of my Digger Doyle Mystery novels.

Portugal changes residency rules

Porto overlooking the Douro River — The city of Porto, on the Douro River, is a famous tourist attraction known for its charming streets and Port houses.

Portugal is a popular retirement destination for an increasing number of Americans. The cost of living, agreeable climate, low crime rate, and friendly people are often cited as the key attractions. But Portugal, like many other countries, is experiencing changes that affect its affordability, and the processes that foreigners must follow to obtain legal residency.

According to recent reports, the number of foreigners living in Portugal has risen from around 400,000 in 2017 to more than 1.5 million by the end of 2024. That is in a country with a total population of 10.7 million! The increase has prompted calls for changes in the rules governing foreigners seeking Portuguese citizenship. Under a law passed in late October, the minimum legal residency period for naturalisation increases from five to ten years for most applicants. The new rules will require applicants to pass a civics test and a language test.

The Elevador da Justa in Lisbon always has a long line of tourists waiting to ride it from the lower part of the city, the Baixa, to the upper level, the Bairro Alto.

Property prices climbing

The cost of purchasing a property in Portugal has also risen sharply in the last few years. Eurostat, the statistical office of the European Union, reported that Portugal saw a 16.3 percent year-over-year increase among the member states in the first quarter of 2025. That compares with a 5.7 percent in the EU overall.

I have lived in central Portugal for six years. When I was house-hunting in 2019, there were a lot of acceptable homes available for between 100,000 to 150,000 euros. Now, that range is more like 250,000 to 300,000. I say “acceptable” because many homes on the market have been empty for several years, are in badly run-down condition, or have severe dampness and mold problems. All of which means a big investment to make them comfortable.

Rental rates have also jumped as foreign investors have flocked to Lisbon. The Portuguese capital has become a magnet for investors wanting to purchase for short-term rentals, making it tougher and tougher to find long-term options. The average monthly rent for a one-bedroom apartment in Lisbon starts from around 600 to 700 Euros, but 1,000 Euros is more typical.

Still an attractive prospect

Despite rising prices and legal changes that make relocation more complicated, Portugal remains a highly popular place for retirement. A report published earlier this year said the number of Americans living in Portugal rose from 14,129 to in 20223 to 19,258 in 2024, a 36 percent increase, according to Portugal’s Agency for Integration Migration and Asylum (AIMA). Some reports have said the number is even higher.

The Praia de Luz is one of the best-known beaches in Portugal. It us popular with tourists and residents alike.

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