US visit brings memories, successes

View of Sandia Mountains — The majestic sweep of the Sandia Mountains near Albuquerque.

A visit to Albuquerque always brings back memories. I lived here for 22 years and was a reporter at the Albuquerque Journal for 18 of those years.

One of the things I miss most since I moved to Portugal in 2019 is the high desert scenery of New Mexico. Yes, it is arid, but oh is it majestic! I love the enormous blue sky and being able to see for 60, 70, or more miles across to the different mountain ranges.

One of the other things I miss in Portugal is the very special cuisine of New Mexico. It is different from anything you get in other states that have “Mexican” influence. Residents of New Mexico are proud of their chile. And by the way, in New Mexico, the long thin spicy vegetable is always spelled “chile” like the country, NEVER “chili”. That’s for Texans. Some of my favorite dishes are: green chile stew, green chile chicken enchiladas, posole (with red chile) and breakfast burritos with green chile, potatoes, scrambled egg and bacon. Yum!

A bowl of green chile stew with tortilla — A bowl of delicious green chile stew with a tortilla at Garcia’s Kitchen in Albuquerque.

Food is a character in my books

One of the main reasons I came to Albuquerque this time was to promote my latest “Digger Doyle” mystery book, Windswept. Readers of my first two books, The Power of Rain, and The Sunshine Solution, have mentioned how scenery figures prominently in each of the stories. Some have said the landscape is almost a character. Food is also a key component of my Digger Doyle stories. She knows the best places to get a good breakfast burrito. Digger’s wife, Maria Ortiz, makes a mouth-watering green chile chicken enchilada, and Maria’s lovable grandmother, Abuela, specializes in posole.

Interestingly, the editor who worked on my latest book was British. I found her through a Facebook group for writers. She assured me she was comfortable working with a US author and I was impressed by her work. However, she did comment that every time my characters sat down to a meal they were always eating chile. Well, it is a New Mexico thing.

Book events

Since arriving in Albuquerque on Jan. 8 I have done three book reading/signing events and sold many copies of the new book and a few copies of The Power of Rain and The Sunshine Solution. I am also delighted with the response I have had from local book stores. Albuquerque book stores that will now carry my books are: Organic Books in Nob Hill, Page 1 Books and Treasure House Books & Gifts in Old Town. Bookworks and Books on the Bosque have also committed to buying copies. All three books are now available at Collected Works book store in Santa Fe.

I have one more book reading/signing event: Saturday, January 25, 1:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. at Treasure House Books & Gifts, 2012 S. Plaza NW in Old Town Albuquerque.

Holding a copy of my new book, Windswept. In the background is a picture from the 1940s of Central Avenue in downtown Albuquerque.

Follow my blog to learn more about my books and life in Portugal, and check out my website RosalieRayburn.com to buy a copy of my books.

Rain, sun and wind, make a trio of mysteries

There is nothing quite so exciting for a writer as the moment when you get a printed copy of your book in your hands for the first time!

That moment happened again for me today when I was finally able to pick up a copy of “Windswept”, my third “Digger Doyle” mystery. Although the book was officially published at the end of November, logistical and geographical complications hindered me from obtaining my own copy.

Windswept continues the story of plucky reporter Elizabeth Doyle, who has earned the nickname Digger for her dogged determination in exposing corrupt and shady politicians.

Each of the three books contains a theme related to concerns about climate change, whether it is the damage caused by torrential rains, or efforts to generate power from the sun or wind.

The mystery in the first two books is related to political skullduggery and revenge. Windswept is my first murder mystery!

It begins when Digger finds the body of a controversial state politician at the base of a wind turbine. Did she fall? Jump? Or was she pushed?

A great read

The new book has had a great reception so far. One reader commented “I read Windswept in two days. It was great. I couldn’t put it down”

Another said “I finished Windswept last night. I carried the book around all day because I couldn’t put it down, literally and figuratively!”

Albuquerque Journal book reviewer David Steinberg had this to say, ““Windswept” is a satisfying airport read.

David Steinberg’s review, Jan. 5, 2025 in the Albuquerque Journal

Book events this month

All three of these novels are set in New Mexico where I lived for 22 years. I arrived back in Albuquerque this week and have three book events scheduled:

January 16, at 3 p.m. at the San Pedro Branch Library, 5600 Trumbull SE

January 18, at 10 a.m. at Martha Liebert Library, 124 Calle Malinche, Bernalillo

January 25, at 1:30 p.m. at Treasure House Books, 2012 S. Plaza in Old Town, Albuquerque.

Hope to see you at one of these events!

Rosalie with a copy of Windswept. Behind her is a photo of Central Avenue in Albuquerque from the 1940s

Hidden secrets in my mysteries

Windswept, my latest Digger Doyle Mystery

Seeing a new book come out is a bit like giving birth. The idea forms inside your head. It starts to take shape as you type. Over time, it grows and develops and takes on a whole new life of its own. Windswept, which came out in November, is my third “Digger Doyle” mystery and the first one where my intrepid reporter main character Elizabeth “Digger” Doyle investigates murders!

Sometimes my characters surprise me with quirky observations or off-the-wall remarks. In my first book “The Power of Rain”, I introduced the fiery artist activist Maria Ortiz who lives with her wise old grandmother whom everyone calls “Abuela”, the Spanish word for grandmother. Over the course of three books I have grown to love Abuela. She has a voice that sounds like the sound of a cello, and the quiet, enduring strength of an olive tree.

An olive tree? Surely there are no olive trees in New Mexico where the books are set. In fact there is a type of olive tree (florestiera pubescens) that is native to New Mexico and it is found in the Bosque, the wooded area along the Rio Grande. I did not know this when I was writing. I was actually thinking about olive trees in Portugal where I now spend most of my time. Sometimes hundreds of years old, the olive trees come back year after year, despite brutal pruning, and yield their precious oil.

Olive trees by an ancient stone bridge in central Portugal.

I have sprinkled a couple of other references to Portugal in my books. For example, the villainous property developer in The Power of Rain is called Johnny Raposa. I guess most of my US readers won’t get the double meaning here, so I will explain it. Raposa means fox in the Portuguese language. It seemed fitting to the man’s wily character.

In my second book, The Sunshine Solution, I describe a young man as being tall and slim like a eucalyptus sapling. Again, no eucalyptus saplings in New Mexico. But the hills and valleys of central Portugal are blanketed with these trees that are grown for the paper making industry.

Windswept has a new character, a lawyer named Paul Marquez. He has been a state legislator for several years and knows his way around the complex and intimidating world of New Mexico politics in Santa Fe. He feels protective of Maria Ortiz who is a neophyte in this challenging environment. He is a partner in a lawfirm called “Marquez, Ferreira and Salazar.” Ferreira do Zezere is the name of a town near where I have been living in Portugal. And Salazar? Yes it is a name often found in New Mexico. But I was thinking of the infamous Portuguese dictator, Antonio de Oliveira Salazar.

Book Readings scheduled

Readers will have opportunities to find out more about the fascinating cast of characters in the Digger Doyle mystery series at one of the book signings I have scheduled in January in Albuquerque. So mark your calendars and clear the dates. I will be talking about the creation of the stories and the work that went into the making of all three books. Plus, I will be offering signed copies at a steep discount from the regular price.

Dates to remember:

January 16, 3 p.m. at the San Pedro Branch Library, 5600 Trumbull SE, Albuquerque

January 18, 10 a.m. at the Martha Liebert Library, 124 Calle Malinche, Bernalillo

January 25, 1:30-3:30 p.m. at Treasure House Books & Gifts, 2012 South Plaza in Old Town, Albuquerque

Follow my blog to learn more about life in Portugal and check out my website, RosalieRayburn.com for more about my Digger Doyle mysteries.

Lights, music, celebrate Christmas season

Christmas decorations in the Praça da Republica Tomar, central Portugal.

It’s that time of year again. Lights sparkle over the ancient streets in the center of Tomar, my Portuguese town. Strolling the cobbled “ruas” you hear the familiar sounds of Bing Crosby singing old favorites like “I’m dreaming of a white Christmas.”

In the center of the main square, the Praça da Republica, the statue of Gualdim Pais, Grand Master of the Knights Templar in Portugal and founder of the town, gazes down at the scene. Stalls are selling baked treats, Christmas decorations and specialty liqueurs. Children play in a bouncy castle and Santa Claus sits in a tent ready to hear their wishes. Smoke drifts upwards from the charcoal brazier where a couple is roasting chestnuts, typical of the season.

Colored lights hang festively over the Rua Augusta in Lisbon before Christmas.

Imported traditions

Portugal has embraced much of the seasonal hype that has been common in the US for decades. In early November, the stores began featuring “Black Friday” sales. I am not sure when the custom of offering steep discounts on the day after Thanksgiving started in the US, but it has taken hold in Portugal where the whole turkey day tradition doesn’t even exist.

Early in December, crews began erecting arches over the Tomar streets to hold the decorative lights. A large tent appeared in the central market place selling lights, decorations, artificial Christmas trees and religious statues for Nativity scenes. Many churches have a “Presépio de Natal” displaying scenes from the Holy Family in Bethlehem. Some places have additional displays with tiny figures performing traditional tasks like farming, blacksmithing, making wine and baking bread. The tradition originated with St. Francis of Assisi in Italy but is common in Portugal and Spain as well.

Christmas dinner: cod and cabbage

Countries have their own favorite dishes at Christmastime. These are typically dictated by the availability of different foods according to climate and growing conditions. When I lived in western Norway in the 1980s, the traditional dish was “pinnekjøtt” or dried salted ribs of lamb which were boiled and served with boiled potatoes and cabbage.

In my part of Portugal, it is baked bacalhau. This is dried salted codfish which you can find everywhere in supermarkets. It must be soaked for up to 48 hours to remove the salt used for preserving before it can be cooked. Nevertheless it is an important part of the Portuguese culinary repertoire. There are dozens of recipes featuring bacalhau. Thus, it is no wonder that it should play a central role in the traditional Christmas meal served late on December 24. The baked cod is served with —- you guessed it, boiled potatoes and cabbage!

Last year, I was fortunate enough to be invited to a Christmas Eve meal at the home of a Portuguese family. Along with the bacalhau, potatoes and cabbage, they served octopus. I had never had this before and found it surprisingly delicious. However the best part for me was the array of tasty deserts.

Traditional Portuguese Christmas Eve meal, baked cod, boiled potatoes and cabbage.

Christmas eve deserts: bolo rainha (left), azevias (top), and rabanadas.

Merry Christmas, or Boas Festas as they say in Portugal. Follow my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal.

Browsing the magical market and other delights

Every sizable town in Portugal has a covered market where you can buy a range of fresh vegetables, fruit, meat, fish cheese and baked goods.

Strolling through the market in a Portuguese town is to be immersed in a deluge of scents, sounds and kaleidoscopic colors. Tomar, where I live in central Portugal, has an indoor market which is open daily. But on Fridays, the market expands with the arrival of a vast array of vendors who set up outdoor displays.

People from the town and surrounding areas flock to get their fresh vegetables, fruit, meat, cheeses, fish and baked goodies. The outside stalls offer shoes, clothing, tools, garden supplies, plants, gadgets, pottery and poultry.

A pair of turkeys and several small fluffy hens for sale at the Tomar Friday market.

Wandering through the narrow aisles between the stalls you hear the vendors calling out their wares. The woman selling tablecloths and pyjamas vies with the neighbor hawking sheets to lure customers. The man at the stand selling a variety of tweed flat caps twirls one on a finger, promising “one size fits all“. My friend wants a couple of hens and no roosters but the poultry seller shrugs, saying she only sells them in couples.

The tempting smell of grilling chicken is a feature of the Friday morning market. The Portuguese are masters at grilled meats.

Another standard of the market place, or any Portuguese festival, is the churro and fartura food truck. If you love doughnuts, you will love churros and farturas. What in the world is a “fartura“ you ask? Think of a doughnut shaped like a foot-long hot dog dipped in cinnamon sugar. Someone ought to bring the concept back to the state fair in New Mexico where anything fried and calorific is always a hit.

A vendor holds a sugar-dipped fartura treat.

A surprise on the street

Shortly before I moved into my new place in Tomar, a friend told me about a curious character who roams the town — the knife grinder.

According to her, he wanders the streets trilling a unique whistle to alert inhabitants of the houses and apartments to his presence. The whistle is code for “bring out your dull old knives and I will sharpen them.” Sure enough, one morning I heard a strange sound coming from the end of the narrow cobbled street where I live. There he was, astride his ancient rusty bicycle, the knife grinder.

I beckoned and he pedaled to my front door where he set up the stand to hold his bicycle in place. The bike is fitted with a belt and pulley system that drives a circular whetstone. I handed him three knives and he set to work. He sat and pedaled the now stationary bike while he expertly honed each blade to a razor sharp edge. I handed him 10 euros and off he went. Such are the adventures in my historic town.

Follow my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal. Check out my website RosalieRayburn.com for the latest on my mystery novels.

Buying property in Portugal, buyer beware

Homes in the historic district of Tomar. The narrow cobbled street is quaint and picturesque but makes access and parking difficult.

Moving to Portugal has suddenly become top of mind for Americans fearful of the new political climate. And why not? Portugal is a safe country with pleasant weather, friendly people and a low cost of living. What could be better?

Making the move involves a whole string of complex bureaucratic steps which I have covered in other blog posts. Once you have committed to relocating to Portugal, you will inevitably have to consider whether to rent or buy a place to live. Buying property in Portugal is a very different process from in the United States.

A key difference is that they do not have a Multiple Listing System. So, if you want to buy a property you may have to decide whether to stick with one realtor or work with several. A friend of mine said she ended up working with about ten different realtors so she could look at the places she had found in her online searches. According to her, this was because the realtors typically would not share information with each other.

In my recent experience, the realtor told me I could list my place with more than one agency, but he offered to charge me a lower commission if I would give him an “exclusive” contract. However, when I came to sign the contract, there was a sub-clause that said they would charge me a higher percentage commission if another real estate agency brought them a buyer. I wasn’t happy about that.

No disclosures, no inspections

When I sold my house in the US, I had to fill out a multi-page document listing details about the construction, water supply and any problematic details. I also had to have a home inspector go over my place with a fine tooth comb looking for deficiencies.

So, I was surprised to learn that it is not customary in Portugal to require the seller to disclose problems that they have experienced with the property. I heard a neighbor tell me gleefully that she had sold a home and didn’t let the buyers know that the roof beams were riddled with woodworm.

It is also not common to require inspections. So it can be very much a case of buyer beware!

Hire a lawyer

It is however, normal in Portugal to hire a lawyer to help with the purchase process. The lawyer can research the deed and other details to ensure that all the buildings on the property; including any sheds, barns or garages, are legal. I have heard of many cases where foreigners were eager to buy a place only to find that part of the house had been converted or an extension added without obtaining the legal permission from the local authorities. If you buy a place which has illegal additions you may have to rectify the situation before you can sell it later on. Some neighbors of mine were told they had to hire an architect and submit a plan for approval. It was expensive and time-consuming.

The lawyer will also advise you about the various taxes and fees; such as transfer tax, land registry fees and stamp duty, required as part of the purchase process. These items can add several thousand to the cost of a property, so it is important to figure them into your budget.

Some of the best known websites to use for finding property in Portugal are Idealista and this list compliled here: https://www.portugalist.com/portugal-property-websites/.

City or country

It is important to clarify what you are looking for. Do you want to live in a city close to stores and restaurants? If so, can you live in a high-rise building and walk or use public transportation? Do you prefer the country? If so, do you want to be in a village or a more isolated setting? How much land do you want? In Portugal you are responsible for clearing the land close to your dwelling to prevent fire risk. Failing to clear the land can result in fines.

Once you have found your dream home and negotiated a price, you will have to pay a deposit, or “promessa“ this is typically ten percent of the price of the home. The contract signed for the promessa typically allows around 60 days to complete the sale. And then it’s home sweet home! Good luck.

A renovated home in a tiny “shist“ village in central Portugal.

Follow my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal. Check out my website, RosalieRayburn.com for news of my Digger Doyle Mystery novels.

Peaceful Portugal, a haven?

Calm waters beside a weir on the Rio Nabao near Tomar, central Portugal

Last week´s dramatic US election results prompted much social media speculation about whether people would leave the country for fear of what a second Trump presidency could bring.

I was contacted a recently by a women’s group in Albuquerque, where I used to live, asking me if I would speak at a Zoom session on how to be an expat. I was happy to share my experience. I have lived in many different countries and have made multiple moves across the world. I was eager to share that knowledge with people who were anxious about the next few years in the US.

It´s easy to say you are going to move overseas to escape a situation you don’t like. Dealing with the nitty-gritty of reality is a whole different matter.

You must ask yourself deep questions about why you want to leave, what do you expect from your new life and how flexible you are to adapt to radically different circumstances?

Portugal is an attractive destination

In recent years, Portugal has emerged as a desirable retirement destination for several reasons. The country has stable government, a low crime rate, low cost of living and an agreeable climate. I moved here in 2019 and several of the American women I have met who moved here around the same time say they feel much safer here than in the US. Healthcare is another factor. Portugal has a national system of healthcare which is accessible to all residents. This is a highly desirable alternative to the corporate profit-driven system in the US which is increasingly unaffordable.

How to make the move?

I see many Americans who post questions on Facebook groups saying they want to move to Portugal. They ask what part of the country they should choose. It is all very subjective. The rare times I respond to these questions, I always advise people to do as much online research as they can (cost of living, climate, cities, public transportation, interest opportunities, housing costs, etc.) Then I say, you must make an in-person visit. Nothing beats being on the ground, talking to residents, seeing the cities and landscape, looking at the type of housing environment etc etc. Moving to a country is very different from visiting on a vacation.

Nossa Senhora da Estela, a chapel located on a steep hillside beside a large cave in the Pombal region of central Portugal.

Bureaucratic details

Americans can come to Portugal on a visitor visit which allows them to stay for up to 90 days. Portugal is among a group of countries which adhere to the Schengen agreement which allows free movement of people and labor throughout most European Union countries. If you want to move to Portugal, you must apply for a special visa.

The D7 visa is for people who have passive income such as a pension, social security, or rental income. Is is a complicated process which takes many steps, but it is entirely doable.

For people who are still working, there is the D8 visa for digital nomads. If you have a lot of money to invest in various financial ventures, there is the Golden Visa program.

Meeting challenges

Moving to a new country will bring all kinds of challenges. For Americans, it means a new language, a different currency, dealing with the metric system (temperatures in celcius, weights in kilos, heights in meters, distances in kilometers.) When you drive in Portugal you will have to learn to navigate traffic circles, which the British call roundabouts.

Housing is vastly different too. In cities, most people live in high-rise apartment buildings. Houses in the country side are old, lack insulation and may have dampness problems.

Ah, but the benefits, oh yeah!!!

Yes, there are challenges, but think of the gains. Living in a peaceful environment where guns do not proliferate. Cities with walkable streets where you can stop for coffee and a pastry or a meal without having to give a giant tip for lousy service. The opportunity to meet people from many different countries, the chance to travel widely in Europe by car train, or even by air without paying a fortune for a ticket.

Oh yeah.

One of the iconic electric tram cars popular with tourists in Lisbon, Portugal.

Follow my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal. Check out my website, RosalieRayburn.com for news about my Digger Doyle Mystery novels.

Cycling the path of El Cid in Spain

Statue in Valencia of the famous 11th Century Spanish warrior Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, who became known as El Cid.

Bicycle tours are one of my favorite kind of trip. It may sound crazy to enjoy the punishing climbs and battering headwinds as a vacation. But for the enthusiast, there is nothing better than to pedal along with a group of like-minded souls.

It was a week of adventures that included coasting down a long canyon in pouring rain, clambering over a washed out bridge, getting bogged down in heavy mud and a narrow track where some evil-minded person had sprinkled thumb tacks! Several of us had flat tires.

But it was all fun!

The trip was with the organization People Cycling, which has volunteers who lead rides in the US, Europe, Asia and elsewhere. Peter South and his wife Marjorie lead several rides per year in the province of Valencia, where they live.

The ride was named after the famous Spanish warrior El Cid, and part of it followed routes he had used during his fighting days for Christian and Muslim armies in the 11th Century.

Our group of nine riders met in Torellano, near Alicante, and spend the next five days riding toward our final destination in Valencia.

Mountains and fruit trees

The terrain near Alicante reminded me of New Mexico. It is a mix of arid landscapes and mountains. However we passed many fields of tomatoes, artichokes and broccoli. There were olive trees, date palms and numerous persimmon trees.

Personalities in the group were as varied as the vegetation. All nine of us were American. My cycling friend and I joked about the guy who never stopped talking. We dreaded getting stuck next to him at dinner.

Towns and castles

Our route took us from Torrellano to Elche and then on to Villena. Part of the path was on gravel track, much of it on roads. After a night in Villena, we did an out-and-back ride to Yecla, a town in the province of Murcia.

Some of the gravel track portion of the ride was on the Camino del Sureste, one of the pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela.

In Villena we toured the hilltop Atalaya castle. (All the castles are on hilltops for defensive reasons.) It was a fascinating glimpse into Spain of the turbulent Middle Ages when there were rival kingdoms of Navarre, Leon, Castile and Aragon. There were also constant battles between the Spanish and the Muslim (Moors) from North Africa who occupied much of Spain and Portugal.

We passed this hilltop sanctuary on the way to Villena. It was designed by a student of Antoni Gaudí who is famous for his buildings in Barcelona.

Challenges en route

One day we had to cross a stream where the bridge had been washed out. We worked together as a team to figure a way across for ourselves and the bikes.

Our route on the third day required us to cover 42 miles (67 km). Unfortunately, we hit a rainstorm just as we began a long descent through a canyon. It would have been beautiful if we could have seen through the raindrops. Trucks passing us on curves provided an extra scare.

The rain made parts of the track muddy. At one point we had to cycle through a stretch of heavy clay mud that clogged up the chains, brakes and gears on our bikes.

Heavy clay mud caked the tires, brakes and gears of our bikes at one point.

The longest day of the tour was a 50-mile (80 km) stretch from Villena to Xativa. As we neared the end of this route, we rode through a beautiful nature path. Unfortunately, some nasty person obviously didn’t like cyclists using it. We found thumb tacks scattered along a narrow portion of the trail. Five of us subsequently had flat tires.

Valencia, a charming city

Our final destination was Valencia, third largest city in Spain. It is a city full of history and elegant buildings. We were fortunate to have a day to explore by joining a walking tour of the old city center and the bustling covered market. We even tried the local cocktail recommended by the tour guide, Agua de Valencia. The mixture of fresh Valencia orange juice, sparkling Cava wine, gin and vodka, packs quite a punch!

From left, enjoying Agua de Valencia, paella Valenciana, two ladies in traditional costume.

One of the former entrances to the walled portion of the city of Valencia.

Follow my blog to read about life in Portugal check out my website RosalieRayburn.com for news about my mystery novels.

Cats and characters liven the streets of historic Portuguese town

A guitarist dressed in antique costume plays at the entrance to the historic Convento de Cristo, in Tomar, central Portugal.

Daily walks in my new home in the historic district of Tomar bring a wealth of quirky sights. I first noticed the many street cats. They lurk in the shadows and scatter quickly when anyone approaches. Kindly residents leave tiny bowls of cat food beside their doorsteps. The tidbits are a constant temptation for my dog!

Then, there are the characters that populate the network of narrow cobbled streets in the “zona historica”. On my early dog walk, about 7:30 in the morning, I see the postal workers laughing and joking as they arrive at the back of the downtown post office.

Further on, there are the street cleaners. Clad in their high visibility vests. They push their carts around the Praça da Republica then fan out through the streets. I now nod “bom dia”, good day, to the blond cleaning lady that passes my house.

Another “bom dia” to my charming upstairs neighbor, Paulo. He lives in the upstairs part of the old house where I now reside. He has an upholstery workshop across the street. Every now and then I hear the sound of the staple gun as he plies his trade.

My neighbor, Paulo, leaves out tiny bowls of food for the street cats.

There is the old guy who crouches on a doorstep in the pedestrian street. He gazes out at passersby as he takes occasional sips from the bottle of white wine stashed beside him.

Sometimes there is a middle-aged man with a tripod sound setup singing fado songs, hoping for a few euros from the tourists.

Tourism central

Tomar is a tourist town. It is famous for its association with the Knights Templar, an order of soldier monks who helped protect pilgrims traveling to Jerusalem during the Middle Ages. In 1162 by Dom Gualdim Pais, the Grand Master of the Order of the Knights Templar founded the city and a statue of him has pride of place in Tomar’s Praça da Republica.

The Templar order was abolished in 1314 but was later reorganized in Portugal as the Order of Christ, with headquarters in Tomar. The immense Convento de Cristo sits beside the ruins of the Templar castle, on a hill dominating the town. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983.

Today, the Convento, castle and Tomar´s charming historic district draw thousands of tourists each year. When I walked by the Convento with my dog one morning this week I saw NINE huge buses lined up outside. Yikes!

From left: entrance to the Convento de Cristo, Templar castle walls, detail from carving around the entrance to the Convento.

Life on a narrow street

Friends have described my street as “the prettiest in Tomar”. Certainly the view of the castle and the flowers planted beside doorways make it chocolate box charming. It is also extremely narrow. I estimate it´s no more than 12 feet, around 3 meters, at its widest. This makes access tricky. I have learned to skillfully navigate around the rare parked car, hoping not to rip off my wing mirrors.

From left: my street with a view of the castle. A car navigates its way through a narrow street in the Historic District of Tomar.

Follow my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal. Check out my website RosalieRayburn.com to find my Digger Doyle mystery novels.

Moving brings opportunities, challenges

The view from my front door in my new home in Tomar, Portugal. The Convento de Cristo is in the background.

You live in the prettiest street in Tomar. That´s what friends have been saying to me all week. It is just seven days since I moved from my cute little house in a small village into the historic district of Tomar. The town is famous for its connection to the medieval Order of the Knights Templar and the organization which succeeded it, the Order of Christ.

My street is now called Rua Doutor Joaquim Jacinto, but all the locals call it Rua da Sinagoga, the street of the synagogue. That is because the old synagogue, which is now a museum, is just a few doors away from my new place.

One of the reasons I told people I wanted to move from the US was because I didn’t want to have to drive everywhere. Guess what? Living in a small village I had to drive everywhere.

In my new place I can walk everywhere. Cafes, restaurants, parks, stores. All within a few minutes on foot.

Challenges

The downside of this move is that I now have to deal with the dreaded world of Portuguese bureaucracy. I am trying to change the official record of my address. I went to the “Financas” office. This is the place that deals with property, taxes and a world of officialdom. The said official referred me to the Junta De Frequesia, the parish office. That is where I had to get an “Attestado” a document that proves I live in the said parish. I had to have two witnesses. Easy. No. The two witnesses had to be Portuguese citizens resident in the same parish.

I managed to co-opt my Portuguese teacher and a neighbor to accompany me to the Junta office to sign for me. One hurdle down.

Next I was supposed to go to the “Camara Municipal”, city hall, to get a resident’s permit. In my case, because I have an Irish passport, (European Union), I had obtained a Certificado de Registo de Cidadão União Europeo when I moved to Portugal five years ago.

Unfortunately it expired in June and I have not been able to renew it because of the unholy mess at AIMA the government agency which handles such issues. The stony faced woman at the Camara refused to give me a new resident permit and referred me to the dreaded AIMA.

This was a huge blow because I have been trying unsuccessfully since March to get an appointment with AIMA to renew the document. But hundreds of thousands of people are in the same position.

Keep trying was her suggestion.

Picking grapes during the annual ‘vindima’.

Joys of the season

Despite these setbacks, I have been enjoying activities typical of this season in Portugal. A couple of weeks ago, I spend a Saturday helping with the “vindima” or grape harvest, at a winery north of Tomar.

Last weekend, I attended one of many medieval festivals. In the small town of Assiceira, south of Tomar, there were groups performing dances in medieval costume to the music of bagpipes and drums.

Kids played games, one of which looked like a medieval version of air hockey. A couple of wenches wandered around in character as the town’s “working ladies”. Other women joked around the old wash fountain and dunked each other amidst much laughter.

Of course there were the usual craft stalls selling jewelry, soap, candles etc. The most impressive was the potter who demonstrated the making of large terra cotta style pots used for storing olive oil.

This large pots have traditionally been used for olive oil and other products.

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