
Portugal is a small country and it is a great launchpad for travel to other parts of Europe. The Spanish border is only about three hours away from where I live in central Portugal. A train trip makes it easy. There are twice daily departures from the rail hub town of Entroncamento to Badajoz, the capital of the Spanish province of Extremadura.
Badajoz is famous for a bloody battle in 1812 during the Napoleonic wars, known as the seige of Badajoz. It is also the the gateway to Portugal which is just a few miles (kilometers) to the west. A friend and I made the trip at the end of 2022 and replayed the adventure last week. We enjoyed our stay at the Hotel Condedu, which was very resonably priced and in a good location to explore the city.
Badajoz was the starting point for a mini-vacation exploring two more fascinating Spanish cities, Merida and Sevilla. Traveling by train in Spain is easy and a pleasant experience. Using the Spanish train system Renfe, you can go anywhere in the country on comfortable, clean trains that allow you to sit back and enjoy the landscape instead of having to stress over driving and navigating your way through the countryside and cities. If you are aged 60 and over you can get the Tarjeta Dorada for 6 euros which gives you up to 40 percent discount on train fares. The Tarjeta Dorada is valid for one year.
Merida and its Roman origins
After a night in Badajoz, we took the train to Merida. Friends had recommended this city because of the vast array of Roman ruins that you can tour. A fifty-minute train journey from Badajoz brought us to Merida, which was once the capital of the Roman province of Lusitania. (Interestingly, Lusitania is also the ancient Roman name for Portugal.) We had booked at the Hotel Nova Roma which turned out to be another great find. It was super comfortable and in a convenient location to explore all the historic sites we hoped to see.




Wandering around Merida, we were overwhelmed by how easily you can see the ancient ruins. The city was founded in 25 BC as Emerita Augusta. We toured a site where there was an amphiteater for entertainment and a colliseum where gladiators fought regularly.
Sevilla: so much to see
From Merida we took another train to Sevilla. The train left mid-afternoon and cruised through flat farmland, stopping a small towns for the first part of the trip. Then we chugged through mountainous scenery and finally arrived about 3 1/2 hours later at the Santa Justa train station in Sevilla. The modest pension where we stayed was in the Barrio Santa Cruz, which we discovered was the old Jewish quarter. It is a delightful area to explore, a maze of narrow alleyways barely wide enough to stretch out both arms without touching the walls. A fifteen minute walk took us to the plaza by the cathedral. Arriving at the plaze in the late morning we saw a long line of tourists waiting to get inside. Not wanting to wait, we continued walking and came upon a line of horse-drawn carriages available to tour the historic sites. For 45 euros we hired the driver Daniel and his horse Peponi to take us on a tour.

A horse carriage is a great way to tour the sights at a leisurely pace. We passed the Torre del Oro, cruised through the Parque Maria Luisa and the Plaza de España.
Of course, who can visit Sevilla without seeing a performance of Flamenco? This passionate style of dance is emblematic of Andalucia, the southern province of Spain. It was also hugely popular in Albuquerque, New Mexico where I lived for many years. Albuquerque has a school of Flamenco and an annual Flamenco festival.

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