
The Festa dos Tabuleiros, or festival of the trays, is an event unique to the town of Tomar in central Portugal. It happens once every four years and draws upwards of half a million visitors to the town of around 23,000 residents. The most stunning feature of the event are the parades of girls or women carrying tall headdresses made of stacked bread rolls and flowers, topped with crowns. They wear traditional costumes of white blouses and long white layered skirts with a colored sash and beige suede shoes.
Seeing as the headdresses are more than a meter tall (think 4 feet) and weigh several kilos (20 lbs or more), each girl or woman has a male companion to help her as she processes. The boys and men wear black trousers, black shoes, white shirts and a tie the same color as their companion’s sash.
Its a huge honor to participate. Kids as young as three or four march along in the children’s procession. The tiniest children carry baskets of flowers rather than trying to cope with the heavy bread-and-flowers headdress. They march through the streets of the town and end up in the Praça da Republica in front of the Igreja de São João Baptista (church of St. John the Baptist), where a priest blesses them. This festival originated in the Middle Ages as a way to honor the Holy Spirit, (Espirito Santo)


Lots of Music
Of course, no Portuguese event is ever complete without a marching band. Now I know how the US got its famous marching songs like “The Stars and Stripes Forever”. Composer John Philip Sousa had Portuguese blood!
There is plenty of music at night too. During the ten-day festival, there is a stage set up in one of the town parks beside the river Nabão where you can hear traditional Fado music or jazz. The main music stage is in the huge Varsea, or plaza in front of the train station. The bands strike up at ten p.m. and go on until the wee hours.
Colorful Streets
In addition to the parades, residents of the town form groups to decorate their streets. It brings together old-timers and foreigners of all nationalities who have settled in this charming town. I’ve met British, American and Portuguese women (it seems that most of the decorators are women) who have participated in the groups. They’ve been working together for almost a year to create a themed design and hand make the millions of paper flowers that go into the decor. It’s highly competitive. On a particular night during the festival the streets are closed off so the decorations can be set up. Then, at the appointed hour, the church bells ring, and the judges begin touring the streets one by one to pick the winning design. The themes are very innovative. I saw a whole street decked out in a maritime theme with a giant octopus, fish, waves, and plenty of fish!



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