
Daily walks in my new home in the historic district of Tomar bring a wealth of quirky sights. I first noticed the many street cats. They lurk in the shadows and scatter quickly when anyone approaches. Kindly residents leave tiny bowls of cat food beside their doorsteps. The tidbits are a constant temptation for my dog!
Then, there are the characters that populate the network of narrow cobbled streets in the “zona historica”. On my early dog walk, about 7:30 in the morning, I see the postal workers laughing and joking as they arrive at the back of the downtown post office.
Further on, there are the street cleaners. Clad in their high visibility vests. They push their carts around the Praça da Republica then fan out through the streets. I now nod “bom dia”, good day, to the blond cleaning lady that passes my house.
Another “bom dia” to my charming upstairs neighbor, Paulo. He lives in the upstairs part of the old house where I now reside. He has an upholstery workshop across the street. Every now and then I hear the sound of the staple gun as he plies his trade.

There is the old guy who crouches on a doorstep in the pedestrian street. He gazes out at passersby as he takes occasional sips from the bottle of white wine stashed beside him.
Sometimes there is a middle-aged man with a tripod sound setup singing fado songs, hoping for a few euros from the tourists.
Tourism central
Tomar is a tourist town. It is famous for its association with the Knights Templar, an order of soldier monks who helped protect pilgrims traveling to Jerusalem during the Middle Ages. In 1162 by Dom Gualdim Pais, the Grand Master of the Order of the Knights Templar founded the city and a statue of him has pride of place in Tomar’s Praça da Republica.
The Templar order was abolished in 1314 but was later reorganized in Portugal as the Order of Christ, with headquarters in Tomar. The immense Convento de Cristo sits beside the ruins of the Templar castle, on a hill dominating the town. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983.
Today, the Convento, castle and Tomar´s charming historic district draw thousands of tourists each year. When I walked by the Convento with my dog one morning this week I saw NINE huge buses lined up outside. Yikes!



Life on a narrow street
Friends have described my street as “the prettiest in Tomar”. Certainly the view of the castle and the flowers planted beside doorways make it chocolate box charming. It is also extremely narrow. I estimate it´s no more than 12 feet, around 3 meters, at its widest. This makes access tricky. I have learned to skillfully navigate around the rare parked car, hoping not to rip off my wing mirrors.


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