How to decide where to settle in Portugal

Many people are interested in moving to Portugal. At least that’s how it looks when I scan the multiple Facebook groups I’ve joined because they are aimed at expats living in, or interested in, Portugal. There are more than a hundred such groups; catering to every possible taste. The question I see over and over, is “I’m planning to move to Portugal in XX many years, what’s the best place to go?”

This is the kind of question that drives those of us who have made the move absolutely crazy. How can anyone else know where that person would like to live? It depends on so many things.

My response to this kind of question is to suggest people look at their lifestyle and ask themselves the following:

Are you used to living in a city or the country? Which do you prefer?
How much do you like to shop? Do you want to have a big choice of stores nearby or are you okay with small local stores and visiting shopping centers only now and again?
Do you eat out a lot? How important is it for you to have restaurants nearby?
Do you want to have a car? Or are you comfortable with using public transportation?
How often do you want to travel? Is it important for you to be near an airport?
What is your income and budget? Prices in Lisbon and Porto have risen steeply in recent years.

These are just a few of the questions people who are “thinking” about moving to Portugal should ask themselves. Facebook groups such as Pure Portugal – Living the Good Life, Moving to Portugal, Expats in Portugal Q&A and many, many more, can provide much valuable information. People can pose questions and get answers from those who have already made the move and settled here. Internet research is invaluable, but a trip to the country is the best way to get a real feel for the place. You get to meet the people face-to-face, taste the food, see the landscape and the architecture.

Discovering the country

Portugal is still quite a poor country by comparison with others in western European. Outside the bigger cities, the countryside is depopulated and many villages have a lot of houses that have been sitting empty for years. You can buy them cheaply, but they also take a lot of time and effort to renovate. Still, life in a Portuguese village can be very fulfilling. People are welcoming and willing to help you. Lunch in a small family-run restaurant can cost you as little as 10 euros for a three-course meal with wine and coffee. Cars and gasoline/diesel are expensive, but if you live in the country you will almost certainly need to drive. Most Portuguese roads are narrow and winding, but luckily there is little traffic. The highways are superb but you usually have to pay tolls.

Portuguese houses

Portuguese houses are usually made of stone. They keep out the heat in the summer but can be awfully cold and damp in the winter. Now that I have experienced a few winters here I always advise people to buy a dehumidifier. You will definitely need it.

The Alentejo and Algarve regions are the hottest in the summer and mildest in the winter. Areas in the far north and closer to the Spanish border are typically the coldest in the winter. The small moutain range called the Serra de Estrela typically get snow and there is even a small ski resort which is open from November to April.

These are just a few thoughts I decided to share about life in Portugal. I moved here more six years after extensive research. One of the ways I did my research was to do volunteer jobs that I found through through the Workaway website. It gave me a great opportunity to meet people and gather useful information. It also gave me a free place to stay. There are all kinds of jobs: gardening, home renovation, working with animals etc etc. You typically work about five hours per day and have one day off per week.

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Dom Luis Bridge, Porto by night — The lights of Porto shine on the Dom Luis Bridge

Traveling Spain by train, is easy

The Torre del Oro stands proudly beside the river Guadalquivir in Sevilla, Spain.

Portugal is a small country and it is a great launchpad for travel to other parts of Europe. The Spanish border is only about three hours away from where I live in central Portugal. A train trip makes it easy. There are twice daily departures from the rail hub town of Entroncamento to Badajoz, the capital of the Spanish province of Extremadura.

Badajoz is famous for a bloody battle in 1812 during the Napoleonic wars, known as the seige of Badajoz. It is also the the gateway to Portugal which is just a few miles (kilometers) to the west. A friend and I made the trip at the end of 2022 and replayed the adventure last week. We enjoyed our stay at the Hotel Condedu, which was very resonably priced and in a good location to explore the city.

Badajoz was the starting point for a mini-vacation exploring two more fascinating Spanish cities, Merida and Sevilla. Traveling by train in Spain is easy and a pleasant experience. Using the Spanish train system Renfe, you can go anywhere in the country on comfortable, clean trains that allow you to sit back and enjoy the landscape instead of having to stress over driving and navigating your way through the countryside and cities. If you are aged 60 and over you can get the Tarjeta Dorada for 6 euros which gives you up to 40 percent discount on train fares. The Tarjeta Dorada is valid for one year.

Merida and its Roman origins

After a night in Badajoz, we took the train to Merida. Friends had recommended this city because of the vast array of Roman ruins that you can tour. A fifty-minute train journey from Badajoz brought us to Merida, which was once the capital of the Roman province of Lusitania. (Interestingly, Lusitania is also the ancient Roman name for Portugal.) We had booked at the Hotel Nova Roma which turned out to be another great find. It was super comfortable and in a convenient location to explore all the historic sites we hoped to see.

Above, the colliseum where gladiators fought, entrance to the colliseum, stage in the amphitheater. Here: the Trajan arch in Merida

Wandering around Merida, we were overwhelmed by how easily you can see the ancient ruins. The city was founded in 25 BC as Emerita Augusta. We toured a site where there was an amphiteater for entertainment and a colliseum where gladiators fought regularly.

Sevilla: so much to see

From Merida we took another train to Sevilla. The train left mid-afternoon and cruised through flat farmland, stopping a small towns for the first part of the trip. Then we chugged through mountainous scenery and finally arrived about 3 1/2 hours later at the Santa Justa train station in Sevilla. The modest pension where we stayed was in the Barrio Santa Cruz, which we discovered was the old Jewish quarter. It is a delightful area to explore, a maze of narrow alleyways barely wide enough to stretch out both arms without touching the walls. A fifteen minute walk took us to the plaza by the cathedral. Arriving at the plaze in the late morning we saw a long line of tourists waiting to get inside. Not wanting to wait, we continued walking and came upon a line of horse-drawn carriages available to tour the historic sites. For 45 euros we hired the driver Daniel and his horse Peponi to take us on a tour.

Carriage driver Daniel stands beside his horse PrePony in Sevilla.

A horse carriage is a great way to tour the sights at a leisurely pace. We passed the Torre del Oro, cruised through the Parque Maria Luisa and the Plaza de España.

Of course, who can visit Sevilla without seeing a performance of Flamenco? This passionate style of dance is emblematic of Andalucia, the southern province of Spain. It was also hugely popular in Albuquerque, New Mexico where I lived for many years. Albuquerque has a school of Flamenco and an annual Flamenco festival.

Flamenco dancers bow to the audience after their show.

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Four reasons I moved to Portugal

Bridge over the Rio Nabao in Tomar — The historic city of Tomar, central Portugal is a must see.

During the last few years living in the US I wondered how I could ever afford to retire. Despite switching to a lower cost company, my car insurance kept increasing. Property taxes rose three percent annually, cell phone, Internet, health insurance premiums and co-pays, all took a bigger chunk out of my paycheck each month. Luckily, I had a pipe dream, retire in Europe. Why not?

Fast forward to today. I have now been living in Portugal for six years. I can afford a comfortable lifestyle here on between $1,500 to $1,800 most months. How did I move to Portugal? Answer, I did a heck of a lot of online research and I made a two-month trip to travel around, explore the country and talk to people. For anyone considering a move to a different country, I advise an extended in-person trip. Visiting a country on vacation is completely different to making a permanent move.

Comparing costs US vs Portugal

PROPERTY TAXES: I moved from Albuquerque in April 2019. At that time, the property tax on my two-bedroom, 1,100 square-foot condo were $1,600 per year. I had downsized in 2016 to lower my costs because I was paying about $2,400 per year on my two-bedroom house.

In June 2019, I bought a two-bedroom, two bath, newly renovated stone cottage with half an acre, in a village in central Portugal for $129,000. My realtor told me the property taxes would be about 130 Euros PER YEAR, or about $147 at the current exchange rate of 1 Euro equals $1.12,( May, 2025). I talked to some British neighbors who had a much smaller cottage down the street and they told me they pay 28 Euros per year. These examples are from a small village in central Portugal. Costs in large cities like Lisbon, Porto, Coimbra and Setubal, may be much higher.

CAR INSURANCE: When I left the US, I was paying about $95 per month to Geico for my comprehensive car insurance on my nine-year-old Mazda 3. I asked through the Facebook group Americans and Friends PT whether I should ship my (paid for) car to Portugal. I was advised not to because Portugal charges a lot of money to “matriculate” foreign cars into the country.

I was also told that second hand cars are expensive in Portugal. The Portuguese will keep cars going forever. I often see cars from the 1980s or early 1990s on the roads.

I bought my car through the website www.OLX.pt which is similar to Craig’s List. I didn’t want to spend a lot but I did want a Volkswagen Golf. I had one before and knew they were strong, reliable cars and I saw a lot of them in Portugal. I ended up with a 2003 diesel Golf (Diesel costs less than gasoline in Portugal), for 5,000 Euros and I am still driving it. I have the equivalent of liability only insurance, but it does include towing and taxi to your home if you get into an accident. My car insurance costs me about $270 per year.

The 2003 VW Golf I bought in 2019 is still going strong.

CELLPHONE AND INTERNET: When I left Albuquerque, I had switched to a low cost cellphone provider which cost me $50 per month for unlimited talk and text. I don’t remember how much data I had. I also paid Centurylink $45 per month for internet service to my house. I had quit using cable and just watched Netflix or whatever I could for free via YouTube etc.

When I arrived in Portugal I got a package from a provider called NOS. Initially, it cost me 34 Euros ($38) per month for cellphone, internet and countless TV stations. Because I lived in the country, it was through a satellite. I now pay 52 Euros through a provider called MEO for the same services, but I have fiber.

HEALTH INSURANCE: Healthcare is a expense for all Americans, plus tens of millions of Americans do not have any health insurance coverage. Even those with “low cost” coverage through Medicare or Medicaid, face expenses and may have difficulty finding a medical provider.

Many Americans I have met in Portugal say the cost of health insurance and medical expenses were a key reason they chose to leave the US. Portugal has a universal healthcare system (SNS Serviçio Nacional de Saúde) which is available to foreigners who are legal residents. The system has is a network of clinics and pharmacies in towns and villages all over the country. Usually, these health centers, “Centro de Saude” are open just a few hours a week. Ideally, there is a doctor who is available during these times, but some centers only have a nurse. Service through the SNS is free or very low cost.

There is a growing network of private facilities and providers, such as Hospital de Luz, CUF and HPA, available to those who pay for medical insurance. Numerous private health insurance options are available in Portugal through companies like Fidelidade, Allianz, Advancecare, Cigna, and Medis. Coverage for pre-existing conditions is not typically available through these plans. The Association of Foreign Property Owners in Portugal (AFPOP) also offers its members special insurance rates through Medal Seguros. Their plans will cover pre-existing conditions under certain conditions.

If you are over 65, like me, options are very limited. I get private health insurance through Mgen for 73 Euros per month. I do not have dental insurance, but a regular six-monthly checkup and cleaning, with x-rays costs me 35 Euros.

Don’t get me wrong, there are a lot of challenges and costs associated with moving to another country, but it can be a great choice financially.

sign for healthcare center and pharmacy — A sign points to the local healthcare center and pharmacy.

Portugal Celebrates its freedom

A carnation decorates the civic building in Grandola — A carnation decorates the municipal building in Grandola. The flower was the symbol of the 1974 peaceful revolution that ended 42 years of dictatorship.

Today, April 25, is a historic date in Portugal. Fifty-one years ago, the ‘Carnation Revolution’ ended the decades long dictatorship under António de Oliveira Salazar. Last year, when Portugal commemorated the fiftieth anniversary of the revolution, tens of thousands of people gathered to celebrate in Lisbon’s Avenida de Liberdade. This year will be a quieter affair, but it is still a public holiday. The main square in my town of Tomar will be filled with stands selling food and drinks, there will be music and song.

Flower power

The revolution was plotted and carried out by a group of young army captains. Disenchanted by having to fight in bloody wars in Portugal’s colonies of Angola and Mozambique and the repression at home, the captains plotted in secret. The signal to start the coup was the song “Grandola Vila Morena”, played on the radio.

A few hours after the tanks rolled into Lisbon streets, Salazar’s successor, Marcelo Caetano, peacefully relinquished power. Out on the streets, women from a flower shop placed carnations in the barrels of the soldier’s guns. Hence the name, Carnation Revolution.

What did the revolution achieve? The ‘Estado Novo’ that Salazar created in 1932 was a time of secret police and political prisons. A time when neighbors informed on neighbors. People were forbidden to gather in public. Women were not allowed to work outside the home, travel, or even open their own mail without their husband’s permission. Salazar discouraged modernization. Instead, he encouraged the people to uphold the old ways. Thus, the Portugal of 1974 was a desperately poor, backward country.

Historic photo of crowds in Lisbon on April 25, 1974, celebrating the end of the dictatorship.

Facismo Nunca Mais

People who packed the streets last year shouted the slogan, “Fascismo Nunca Mais”, no more fascism. Although historians say Salazar was not a fascist, he was an ultra-rightwing authoritarian who used his secret police (PIDE) against political opponents.

The poet Sophia de Mello Andresen, wrote a poem that captured the elation of the first days of freedom. “Esta e a madrugada que eu esperava”. Roughly translated, it means, this is the dawn that I longed for. She continues, saying that it was like emerging to a brand new day free from night and silence.

Shifting winds

Fifty years later, the political climate in Portugal is changing. The far-right “Chega” party has gained ground since it was founded in 2019. Many were stunned when Chega won 18 percent of the votes cast in a national election held in March 2024. In this, Portugal was like several other countries in Europe, including France, Germany and the Netherlands, which have seen a surge in support for right-wing parties.

However, Chega did not perform as well in the European parliament elections in June 2024. Polls in advance of a snap election called for May 18, show Chega’s support has continued to slip. So the future is unclear.

A band plays the song “Grandola Vila Morena” in Grandola, Portugal, on the fiftieth anniversary of the Carnation Revolution. The song, played on the radio was the signal for the troops to begin the coup to overthrow the dictatorship.

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What, no Portuguese wine for US?

shows huge warehouse full of port wine — Barrels of Port wine at the famous Taylor & Fladgate port house on the Douro river in Porto.

Portuguese people are proud of their wines and they export them internationally. The United States is the largest market, followed by the UK, France, Brazil and the Netherlands. Wine exports totaled more than $1 billion in 2023.

Well, guess what! The US isn’t going to be buying any more wine from Portugal –– at least for the time being.

That is the word from Paulo Amorim, president of the National Association of Traders & Exporters of Wines & Spirits. The Portugal News quoted Amorim saying, “The USA has stopped orders for Portuguese wines and wines from Europe.”

Amorim blamed the present climate of business uncertainty following the US administration’s actions to slap tariffs of 20 percent onto goods from European Union countries.

This could be a significant blow to Portuguese wine growers. Hillsides all over the country are covered with vines. The Douro River Valley is famous for the grapes used to make Port, a style of wine fortified with a type of distilled spirit known as “aguadente”.

Other Portuguese wines that have gained a following in the US are the lightly sparkling, low alcohol, white wines known as “Vinho Verde.”

And who can forget Mateus Rosé. I remember that as one of the first wines I ever experienced as a college student in the 1970s. Well, it’s still being made.

Harvesting grapes in September at a vineyard near Penela, central Portugal.

DEI letters to businesses

Another disturbing situation arose recently. Portuguese businesses that supply goods and services under US government contracts received letters telling them, essentially, to end diversity equity and inclusion (DEI) initiatives. Similar letters were sent to businesses in other European countries.

Companies that have such contracts are reported to include, Vodaphone Portugal, Fidelidade, GALP and Allianz Portugal.

So, far there has been ‘muted’ reaction from the businesses and the Portuguese government, according to a story in Newsweek.

University programs canceled

Back in March, the US canceled programs at six universities in Portugal. The “American Corners” programs are “information and culture centers” financed by the US State Department, according to a story in Portugal News.

The schools were also questioned about whether they were involved in ‘investigations involving terrorist associations, cartels, human and drug trafficking, or organizations that promote mass immigration.”

The president of one school, Instituto Superior Técnico, Rogério Colaço, reportedly called the questions, “quite inappropriate.” The other universities are: Azores, Aveiro, Porto (faculty of arts), Lisbon (faculty of Arts) and Nova de Lisboa (faculty of Science and Technology). Colaço and heads of the other universities refused to answer any of the questions.

The Portuguese Minister of Foreign Affairs, Paulo Rangel this week told reporters he welcomed “the position of Portuguese universities.”

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Portuguese concerns about US

Hands Off posters in Lisbon — People gathered with “Hands Off” posters in Lisbon’s Praça do Comercio, on April 5.

Lisbon, Portugal’s capital, was one of several European cities that saw people waving “Hands Off” banners on Saturday, April 5. Similar public gatherings were taking place in Portugal’s second largest city, Porto, and in France, the UK and Germany.

According to NPR (National Public Radio), more than 1,000 gatherings took place across the US, protesting the Trump administrations “plans and policies” such as “mass firing of federal workers”, “immigration raids” and the “involvement of billionaire Elon Musk in federal government activities.

In Portugal, local sources reported that about 700 people, mostly Americans, took part in the gathering at the Praça do Comercio in Lisbon.

Barrels of Port wine age at the famous Taylor’s Port house by the Douro river that flows through Portugal’s second largest city, Porto. Portuguese merchants fear tariffs could harm their exports to the US.

Tariffs bring worries

The possibility of tariffs on goods the US imports from Europe has the Portuguese worried. Probably the best known commodity Portugal exports is wine, especially the high-dollar Port wines. The country also exports pharmaceuticals, textiles, cork and leather products.

So far, the situation appears unclear as the possibility of a 10 percent tariff on European goods, with retaliatory tariffs on US exports to the EU, is paused.

Follow my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal. And check out my website RosalieRayburn.com to read about my Digger Doyle mystery series.

Portugal sees influx of Americans

A headline in the Portuguese newspaper Publico on Saturday, March 22, caught my eye. It said “Emigração americana para Portugal dispara: mais 50% em 2024”. Roughly translated, it means American emigration to Portugal rose more than 50 percent in 2024.

The first sentence in the article said that Portugal, in recent years, has become an exile destination for Americans fleeing the political climate in their country. It said there are now nearly 21,000 US citizens living in Portugal, according to official figures from AIMA, SEF (Portuguese agencies that handle immigration), the US Embassy, and the Bank of Portugal.

The multipage feature article included interviews with several US citizens, couples and singles ranging from 39 to 68, who told their own stories about why they chose to move to Portugal.

The website of Madeira Corporate Services, a company that helps people relocate, lists five key reasons. Those reasons include, Portugal being a safe country, access to low-cost healthcare through the Portuguese system, political uncertainty in the US, and opportunities for digital nomads in Portugal. Plenty of articles and social media posts reinforce this information.

Article in Portuguese newspaper on Saturday, March 22, says American emigration to Portugal increased more than 50 percent in 2024.

How are the Portuguese reacting?

I moved to Portugal in 2019 and lived in a small village for five years. I found the Portuguese friendly, welcoming and kind. I rarely encountered any rudeness or witnessed arguments in public. The pace of life is slower than the US and it is vital to accept that if you want to live here. Since 2019, I have witnessed property prices soar. Lisbon continues to be the most expensive area.

There are concerns that foreign buyers have caused this price escalation. It has made it increasingly difficult for Portuguese people to afford rents or buy houses or apartments. So far though, I have not heard or read about a backlash against foreigners, including Americans, moving to Portugal.

Travel Concerns

While an increasing number of Americans are traveling to Portugal, several European countries, including Germany and the UK, have warned about travel to the United States. This is after reports of people with visas or Green Cards being stopped by Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) from entering the US or even being detained. Just yesterday, a Dutch friend said she received a government alert from Holland warning her about travel to the US.

Dom Luis Bridge in Porto — The double-decker Dom Luis bridge over the River Douro in Porto.

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Portugal headed to the polls again in May: third time in three years

Stormy skies above the rain engorged Rio Nabão in Tomar, central Portugal.

Spring in Portugal has been wet and stormy. This includes the political climate as well as the weather. A tempest arose a few weeks ago when the Portuguese press reported a potential conflict of interest involving the Prime Minister, Luís Montenegro.

According to Politico.eu the issue was the data consultancy firm Spinumviva which Montenegro founded in 2021, before entering politics. Montenegro had transferred ownership of the company before the national election in March 2024, when he became prime minister. But questions arose as to whether he was personally benefitting from Spinumviva’s government contracts.

Long story short, Montenegro lost a vote of confidence and a snap election has been called for early May. It will be the third election in Portugal in three years.

Rinse and Repeat?

The last election was the result of the resignation, in late 2023, of the previous prime minister, António Costa, in connection with an influence-peddling investigation.

Costa and his Socialist Party, won an unexpected majority in an election in January 2022. That election was called after the budget proposed in October 2021, was rejected. Costa is now president of the European Council.

The 2024 election saw a big increase in the number of seats won by the right-wing Chega party headed by André Ventura. Chega didn’t perform as well in the European Parliamentary elections held in June 2024, so it will be interested to see how they fare in May.

Clothes hanging out to dry on a windy day in the historic center of Tomar. The iconic Templar castle and Convento de Cristo is in the background.

Follow my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal. Visit my website, RosalieRayburn.com to read about my Digger Doyle mystery series.

Tomar: small town charm in Portugal

Tomar’s historic Templar castle is lit up at night

I see a lot of social media posts by Americans saying they want to move to Portugal. What are they looking for? Well, at the moment, it seems like they are looking to escape an increasingly scary political situation in the US.

Every time I hear this, I ask them: what kind of life are you looking for?

Me? I was looking for community. Moving to a small town in Portugal gave me the opportunity to make connections with my neighbors, with the people in the tiny stores and restaurants, with the familiar faces I see on the streets each day. I see them on the street because I am walking. In the US, I was always driving in my car.

I moved to Portugal in 2019, lived in a tiny village for five years and now live in the historic town of Tomar, founded 1160. Every day, I run into people I have come to know during my time here. Exchanging a “bom dia”, “boa tarde” or “boa noite”, depending on the time of day, gives me a great sense of belonging.

City girl visits Tomar

This weekend, a British friend who lives in the Lisbon area, came to visit. She had never been to Tomar before. The train journey from the Santa Apolonia station in Lisbon to Tomar takes about two hours. It is a regional train which stops every 10 kilometers. About 30 minutes before the end of the journey, in a town called “Entroncamento”, the line branches off. The main line continues north, the branch line goes to Tomar, the final stop.

If you get in the wrong car (carriage) in Lisbon, you can find yourself stranded in Entroncamento, because only the first three cars of the train continue to Tomar. One friend who visited in 2022 actually got stranded in Entroncamento, because she was in the wrong carriage.

What’s in a town?

Coming from the hustle and bustle of Lisbon, my friend found Tomar very quiet. But that is its charm. The old part of town, where I live, is a network of tiny, cobbled streets where people chat in doorways. It has dozens of cafes and restaurants where people enjoy coffee morning, afternoon and evening.

Mostly it is known for its stunning Templar castle and the associated Convento de Cristo, a UNESCO world heritage site which draw tens of thousands of tourists each year.

Rosalie (left) and friend Ginny, pose with a man dressed as a Templar knight at the gate of the castle in Tomar.

Unfortunately, this being March, the weather did not cooperate for my friend’s visit. A major depression called “Jana” was predicted to affect the country over the weekend, bringing heavy rain, gusty winds and dangerous waves. We saw everything but the waves. Luckily, we had umbrellas!

However, one thing my friend enjoyed during her stay, was my supply of British PT Tips tea bags. Knowing how hard it is to get good quality tea here in Portugal, an English friend brought me a bag of 1,100 tea bags last year. Despite my daily cuppa habit, I still have several hundred left.

Hallelujah! It’s raining tea bags in Tomar.

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Portugal celebrates ‘Carnaval’

A little boy drummer leads his school friends in the carnival parade in Ferreira do Zezere, central Portugal.

It is “Carnaval” time again in Portugal this weekend. Yes, that is how they spell it here in Portugal, where every town and city around the country is celebrating with music, dancing and parades. The carnival tradition supposedly originated hundreds of years ago in Italy. Catholics were not supposed to eat meat during the season of Lent which begins on Ash Wednesday and lasts until Easter Sunday. So, they began the custom of holding a lively costume party festival on the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. They called the festival “carne vale” which means “put away the meat.”

Here in Portugal, the tradition goes back to the Middle Ages. The oldest known carnival celebration started in the thirteenth century in the city of Torres Vedras, about 43 kilometers (27 miles) northwest of Lisbon.

Often groups in small villages all around a larger town will get together to create a float or parade group around a theme. Movies, popular bands and local sport clubs are frequent themes. Sometimes the floats have highly political messages, with signs or costumes satirizing current issues or poking fun at well-known government personalities.

Maybe Celtic origins?

The village of Podence in the Tras os Montes region of far northeastern Portugal is known for its unique colorful costumes and the bizarre antics of the revelers, called “Caretos.”

Men from the village and surrounding area are clad in home-made woolen costumes in red, green and yellow. They wear red masks made of wood or leather. They hang metal rattles and bells from their belts and often carry a wooden staff.

These “Caretos” go round the village shaking their rattles and bells at any women they find. Supposedly it’s all about spring, fertilization and new growth after the long winter. The festival in Podence and Macedo de Cavaleiros nearby, has been designated as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. Some historians believe the festival is linked to ancient Celtic fertility rites.

The village where I used to live celebrated with a carnival dance “Baile Carnaval” in the local association hall. There was plenty of traditional Portuguese music, which sounds to me a lot like polka tunes or the kind of Mexican “rancheras” I was used to in New Mexico. A lot of local people showed up and danced enthusiastically or joined in the conga line if they couldn’t find a partner.

This year I will experience Carnaval in the town of Tomar where I moved late last year. In addition to the usual parades for children and adults with parades for children and night time concerts in the main square.

As is typical here in Portugal, the concerts will start around 10 p.m. Since I live in the historic center of town, I am sure I will hear the music. However, I am not a late night person, so I might not see the bands in person.

Local musicians bring a carnival spirit to the local market in Chãos, central Portugal.

In the US, the carnival tradition is observed in New Orleans as “Mardi Gras” or Fat Tuesday. The days-long festival in Rio de Janeiro is world famous for its samba bands. Tomar also spreads the festivities over several days..

Revelers crowd the streets of Tomar, central Portugal to watch the carnival parade.

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