Portugal changes residency rules

Porto overlooking the Douro River — The city of Porto, on the Douro River, is a famous tourist attraction known for its charming streets and Port houses.

Portugal is a popular retirement destination for an increasing number of Americans. The cost of living, agreeable climate, low crime rate, and friendly people are often cited as the key attractions. But Portugal, like many other countries, is experiencing changes that affect its affordability, and the processes that foreigners must follow to obtain legal residency.

According to recent reports, the number of foreigners living in Portugal has risen from around 400,000 in 2017 to more than 1.5 million by the end of 2024. That is in a country with a total population of 10.7 million! The increase has prompted calls for changes in the rules governing foreigners seeking Portuguese citizenship. Under a law passed in late October, the minimum legal residency period for naturalisation increases from five to ten years for most applicants. The new rules will require applicants to pass a civics test and a language test.

The Elevador da Justa in Lisbon always has a long line of tourists waiting to ride it from the lower part of the city, the Baixa, to the upper level, the Bairro Alto.

Property prices climbing

The cost of purchasing a property in Portugal has also risen sharply in the last few years. Eurostat, the statistical office of the European Union, reported that Portugal saw a 16.3 percent year-over-year increase among the member states in the first quarter of 2025. That compares with a 5.7 percent in the EU overall.

I have lived in central Portugal for six years. When I was house-hunting in 2019, there were a lot of acceptable homes available for between 100,000 to 150,000 euros. Now, that range is more like 250,000 to 300,000. I say “acceptable” because many homes on the market have been empty for several years, are in badly run-down condition, or have severe dampness and mold problems. All of which means a big investment to make them comfortable.

Rental rates have also jumped as foreign investors have flocked to Lisbon. The Portuguese capital has become a magnet for investors wanting to purchase for short-term rentals, making it tougher and tougher to find long-term options. The average monthly rent for a one-bedroom apartment in Lisbon starts from around 600 to 700 Euros, but 1,000 Euros is more typical.

Still an attractive prospect

Despite rising prices and legal changes that make relocation more complicated, Portugal remains a highly popular place for retirement. A report published earlier this year said the number of Americans living in Portugal rose from 14,129 to in 20223 to 19,258 in 2024, a 36 percent increase, according to Portugal’s Agency for Integration Migration and Asylum (AIMA). Some reports have said the number is even higher.

The Praia de Luz is one of the best-known beaches in Portugal. It us popular with tourists and residents alike.

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Olive harvesting in Portugal: brings friends, and neighbors together in new ways

For the first time, I harvest olives from my own two trees, with the help of my wonderful neighbors, Chris and Anemie.

Note: I wrote this post in the fall of 2021, but it’s olive season again here in my part of Portugal and I am out picking olives with many of my neighbors. I love the way people follow the seasons, performing the age-old tasks that bring them together. Portuguese olive oil isn’t well known in the US or Britain, but it is superb, and in my little corner of Portugal, it is made with love.

October in my part of Portugal means Olives. This year the trillion or so olive trees that cover the hillsides and valleys around my village are loaded with olives. Great news for all my neighbors because last year there was nary an olive to be harvested.

I too have become obsessed with these little nuggets that yield valuable oil and tasty treats. I only have two trees on my land but the amount of olives hanging on those branches convinced me they needed harvesting. I made an agreement with one set of neighbors, to bring my olives over to their place. They have enough trees to yield the 400 kilos of olives to warrant their own pressing at the local “lager” or olive press. This means, they can make an appointment to bring their harvest and get the oil from their very own olives.

If you don’t have a big enough yield for your own pressing, you just take them along to the lager and they get mixed in with others. The oil you get is a mixture of your own olives and that from everyone else.

Olive picking in some parts of Portugal is highly mechanised. But here in the central part of the country, it is still a very labor intensive job, done by hand. It’s an opportunity for friends and neighbors to come together and spend a few hours or days working at this basic task.

First you spread out a huge green net to catch the fruit. Then, someone goes up the ladder into the tree, cuts branches and tosses them down to the picking crew on the ground. You can strip the olives from the branch either by hand or a small plastic rake. Once the tree is picked clean, the crew gathers up the big green net and dumps the olives into a large plastic bucket. It reminded me of documentaries I’ve seen about fishermen collecting their catch in the old days.

This year, my Belgian neighbors helped me pick, I also helped some British friends and neighbors pick and clean their olives. It’s a community affair and I love it!

The next step is to run the harvested olives through a machine called a “Lena” (leena) to remove any remaining twigs and stems. It’s basically a big drum with a hopper on top, a shaker mechanism and a fan that blows the cleaned olives through to a chute where they drop into a big bucket. The cleaned olives are then stored in heavy plastic backs until they can be taken to the olive press.

Olives harvested from my trees, my neighbours German workaday volunteers operate the Lena machine to clean the olives, and I beam at the cleaned olives in the big purple vat. Behind me are plastic bags of olives waiting to go to the press.

Local election campaign sets streets abuzz in Portugal

A billboard advertises candidates running for election in Miranda do Corvo, central Portugal.

It seems like the buzz never stops in my area of central Portugal. All summer long, the villages and towns held festivals every weekend. Now “festa” season is over it is time for flag-waving and speeches. That means It´s election time again in Portugal. Voters will go to the polls on Sunday, October 12, to choose representatives for their local towns and counties. Election season means fliers in the mailbox, posters and billboards everywhere, cars driving through the streets blaring “vote for so-and-so” messages and festive street rallies.

Unlike the U.S. where election campaigns drag on for months with a barrage of mean-spirited ads, Portuguese election campaigns last only a few weeks. Voters will cast ballots for the representatives in the Municipal Chamber (Câmara Municipal), which is like a city council as well as the Municipal Assembly (Assembleia Municipal), similar to a county commission, and the Parish Council (Junta de Freguesia). The Freguesia is like a village council, it operates in rural areas. Currently there are 308 municipalities and 3,000 parish councils in Portugal. Foreigners who have documentation to prove they are legal residents in the country can vote.

A billboard message in Miranda do Corvo says “Change Life”.

What I find refreshing about the election experience in Portugal is the messages are upbeat and positive. The multi-page flier slipped into my mailbox talks about taking care of the environment, promoting jobs and investment, urban transportation, education, healthcare. Current mayor Hugo Cristovão is running on the slogan, “A Força de Quem Faz” or “The Strength of those who do”.

Many parties and the rightwing surge

Portugal has multiple political parties. The center-left Socialist Party (Partido Socialista) and center-right Social Democratic Party (Partido Social Democrata) have dominated politics on the national level since the 1974 Carnation Revolution which ended 41 years of the Estado Novo dictatorship. However, the right-wing Chega party, founded in 2019, has gained ground rapidly in recent years. It now has the second greatest number of representatives in the national assembly.

A huge truck bearing the image of Chega party leader Andre Ventura drives through Tomar.

Driving around my area of central Portugal, near Tomar, I have noticed a large number of Chega billboards and posters. To me as an outside observer, this seems to indicate a large source of funds and an extensive and well-organized group campaign volunteers.

In the last couple of weeks, the streets of towns and villages are teeming with groups of political volunteers of all parties, waving banners, honking horns and generally making life interesting. We will see how it pans out on Sunday.

A campaign worker carries a party flag — An election campaign worker in Miranda do Corvo carries an flag from the PSD.

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Wonders of the orient delight visitors to Portugal’s Buddha Eden

statue of dragon and Buddha — GA statue of the reclining Buddha is one of the most impressive features at Buddha Eden.

Nestled in the rolling hills of western Portugal, about an hour north of Lisbon, is a truly spectacular experience, Europe’s largest Asian garden. The Buddha Eden is a 35-hectare (86-acre) garden of lawns, lakes, and exotic plants. Most impressive of all is the vast collection of statues. These giant statues of the Buddha; seated, standing, or reclining, are scattered throughout the grounds. Armies of terracotta warriors or stone dragons guard them. In the center of the long, narrow lake is a small temple, accessible by a footbridge. The red bridge reminded me of my trip to Vietnam in 2017, when I visited the Ngoc Son Temple on an island in the Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi.

A footbridge leads to the temple in the middle of the lake at Buddha Eden.

The garden was created by José Manuel Rodrigues Berardo, a Portuguese businessman and art collector, who commissioned the statues in response to the destruction, in 2001, of the Buddhas of Bamiyan in Afghanistan. Around six thousand tons of marble and granite were commissioned for the creation of the statues.

African sculptures

Work on the garden began around 2006 and continues to this day. The newer areas feature artworks by contemporary sculptors. There is also a whole area filled with sculptures by African artists from the Shona people of Zimbabwe. Visitors can walk the paths around the gardens or take the little train from near the entrance. It chugs slowly around the grounds at walking pace. Passengers can get off at any one of the three stops to explore and rejoin the train later. The journey takes about 20 minutes.

A hillside at the garden is filled with scuptures by African artists from Zimbabwe.

Buddha Eden is on the grounds of the Bacalõa winery at the Quinta dos Loridos. There is a buffet restaurant and shop near the entrance where visitors can browse and buy wines from seven regions, including Alentejo, Setùbal Peninsula, Bairrada, Dão, and Douro. Entry to the park is seven Euros, and train tickets cost seven euros. The garden is open year-round except for Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.

A giant figure of a man with his head buried in stone is one of many sculptures by contemporary artists at the Buddha Eden garden.

Nearby attractions

I have lived in Portugal for six years and although I had heard of the Buddha Eden garden, I had no idea of how extensive and spectacular it is. Only about a ten-minute drive away is the much better-known medieval walled town of Obidos. You can park outside the town and stroll through its narrow streets, visit its famous book stores, and test your fear of heights as you walk along the ramparts which have no guard rails.

If you have time or are continuing a tour of the area, drive to the coast and visit the town of Peniche. This charming traditional fishing town is home to a 16th-century fort that was built to defend the coast. Peniche is now a popular destination for surfers. You can also take a boat from the Peniche harbor out to the Berlenguas islands, where you can visit a nature reserve and the Fort of São João Batista. The 17th-century fort, according to the guide who showed my friends around it, was built to defend Portugal from the British, the Spanish, and pirates!

The São João Batista is a feature of the Berlengas islands. It is possible to stay overnight at the fort.

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The Aussie tree that swallowed Portugal

A visitor traveling around Portugal may be surprised to see miles and miles of hillsides covered in eucalyptus forests. These trees, native to Australia, are grown for paper and pulp production, oils, resins, and construction.

Companies like Navigator and Renova produce a range of paper products that account for about 1.5 percent of Portugal’s GDP and about 80,000 jobs.

How did they get to Portugal?

Eucalyptus trees were brought to the Iberian Peninsula in the early nineteenth century. They were first planted in 1829 at the Quinta da Formiga in Vila Nova de Gaia, near Porto, according to Biodiversidade.com.pt. However, it was in the 1860s that the Portuguese railway company began large-scale plantations to use the logs for railroad ties (also known as sleepers in British English).

In a countryside characterized by short, steep hills and deep, narrow valleys, growing eucalyptus as a crop makes sense. They grow swiftly, can be harvested within 12 years, and they keep on growing. An area where the trees have been cut will sport new saplings within less than five years. The most prevalent variety is the Eucalyptus globulus or blue gum. Leaves on the very young trees are blue, turning to green as they mature.

Watching the eucalyptus being harvested is fascinating. A huge machine, mounted on tracks like a tank, can move up and down the steep hillsides. Its crane-like boom is equipped with a machine that can cut the tree, strip the leaves, and grabber claws lift and stack the logs. Operating one of these machines is skilled and dangerous work, according to an operator I talked to.

Hyundai logging machine — This track-mounted logging machine, built by Hyundai, can maneuver up and down steep hillsides where the trees are grown.

The business end of the logging machine can cut trees, strip the leaves and stack the logs.

A hillside where the eucalyptus trees have been harvested.

Giant matchsticks

Despite this, the Portuguese, however, have a love-hate relationship with these intruders from down under. Why? Let me count the ways. They are not native to Portugal. They use a lot of water, the plantations have eliminated biodiversity in many areas, and they pose a significant fire risk. Every summer, parts of the country are ravaged by fire, often because the burning eucalyptus bark is blown by the wind and spreads the blaze. An article in the Portugal news dubbed them “giant matchsticks”.

Smoke looms over countryside — Smoke from a wildfire looms over central Portugal. The trees in the foreground are oak, those in the distance are eucalyptus.

Personally, I fall into the I hate eucalyptus category. If I never see another eucalyptus plantation, I would be happy. The endless dark green of the hillsides, the tunnel-like roads that wind through the forests, is depressing to me. However, everyone has their own opinion. I use toilet paper and kitchen paper made by Renova!

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Best uncrowded beaches in Portugal

The Praia de Galé on the Alentejo coast is a hidden gem with magnificent rock formations and few people.

Portugal has been a vacation destination for northern Europeans for decades. Sun-hungry tourists typically flock to the well-known (and crowded) beaches of the Algarve, on the south coast. But the beaches of the Alentejo, on the west coast, are equally beautiful, and much less crowded.

The Alentejo coast is home to the beach of Comporta, which has become a magnet for celebrities and movie types. There is also the nearby resort of Troia, complete with a casino and opportunities to take dolphin-watching tours on the Sado River. Not for me.

My favorite is the Praia de Galé, about a twenty-minute drive from the small Alentejo town of Grandola. It is truly a hidden gem. The only way to reach it is either via a long dirt road past a campsite, or by winding through a small upscale neighborhood and descending a long, steep staircase. As you climb down the wooden steps, you suddenly come upon a magnificent cliff. The vivid orange sandstone is deeply grooved from centuries of wind and weather.

The beach stretches for many miles (kilometers) in each direction. Its remote location means you can enjoy the space without feeling cramped. Stroll along the sand, enjoy the surf, and even have a drink or light meal at the Mexican-themed beachside snack bar. A short distance south of Melides is the Lagoa de Santo André, an inlet of the sea whose shallow water is warmer than the Atlantic. My kind of place to venture into the water.

lounging on the beach at Lagoa de Santo Andre — Enjoying putting my feet in the sand at the Lagoa de Santo André beach near Grândola, Alentejo.

A few kilometers to the south of Praia de Galé is the delightful village of Melides, which is a short distance inland from another charming beach. When I first visited Portugal, intending to move there, I thought I would love to buy a place in or near Melides. Unfortunately, a lot of other people with a lot more money than me had the same idea. Prices there are sky-high. Still, it’s worth a visit, and you can enjoy a coffee or drink at the delightful cafe in the center of the village.

On to the Algarve

The Praia de Luz is one of the best known beaches in Portugal

Any visit to Portugal should probably include a trip to the Algarve. This region, located along the southern coast of the country, is home to towns such as Faro, Albufeira, Portimão, and Lagos, which attract thousands of tourists every summer. They come for the golf and the beaches. If you don’t mind a crowd, you can enjoy stunning views, and there is plenty of lively activity day and night. One of the best-known and most iconic beaches is the Praia de Luz, near Lagos.

Well, summer is now over, so beach visits are maybe for next year. But you can make plans now!

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Moving to Portugal popular, but times are changing

Dom Luis Bridge in Porto — These rabelo boats were historically used to transport Port wine barrels on the Douro River from vineyards to Vila Nova de Gaia.

In recent years, Portugal’s low cost of living, visa programs, sunny climate and access to other European countries have made it a sought-after destination for Americans seeking to move abroad. That trend accelerated even before the November 2024 election and a raft of executive actions that have rolled back protections for the LGBTQ and transgender community. Official figures show that the number of Americans living in the southern European country soared from around 3,000 in 2017 to more than 14,000 in 2023.

Reasons people give for making the move include the desire to flee a rising cost of living, political polarization, concerns about access to healthcare, and personal safety.

Portugal certainly meets those expectations. According to Global Citizen Solutions, a company that advises on international relocation, a couple can live comfortably in Portugal on between $2,500-$3,000 per month, outside major cities. The national healthcare system offers low or no-cost care to legal residents. The Global Peace Index ranked Portugal among the top ten safest countries in the world. Portugal is also ranked among the most LGBTQ-friendly. The country approved same-sex marriage in 2010, LGBTQ couples have adoption rights, and there is strong legislation prohibiting discrimination on sexual orientation and gender identity in employment, housing, healthcare, and public services.

Housing costs rising

However, Portugal’s very popularity has led to major changes. House prices have risen steadily in recent years, and will continue to increase because of demand, according to Fortune magazine. Idealista, a major property company in Portugal, reported prices increased by 6.5 percent in the year ending February 2025. Prices are highest in the major cities of Lisbon, Porto, and the southern district of the Algarve. Monthly rent for a one-bedroom apartment in Lisbon center starts at around 600-700 euros ($700-$820), according to Portugalist.com, but they can be tough to find.

House prices are lower in cities like Viana do Castelo, in northern Portugal, Santarem in central Portugal, and Castelo Branco, in the east near the Spanish border. It’s also possible to find much lower prices in country areas, but many properties require significant renovations. Dampness is a big problem in all Portuguese homes.

Visas and a change to residency requirement

There are multiple ways to relocate to Portugal. The D7 visa is available if you have “passive” income such as social security, pension or rental income. Applicants must provide an array of official documents, including proof of income. The VFS Global website, VFSglobal.com explains the process. The Golden Visa program which allowed applicants to obtain residency through investment in property, has been changed. It now requires applicants to invest between 200,000 and 500,000 euros in either a cultural organization or specified funds.

The D8, or “Digital Nomad” visa is available for applicants who can work remotely. Applicants must show proof monthly income of 3,480 euros, or about $4,000.

This year, the Portuguese government approved a major change to the requirements for obtaining Portuguese citizenship. Portugal is a member of the European Union and is covered by the Schengen agreement. This means, Portuguese citizens can travel visa-free and work anywhere within the EU.

Under new rules foreigners will need to complete 10 years of residency in Portugal before applying for citizenship, replacing the previous five-year requirement. The new rules include stricter language requirements, a civic knowledge test and applicants must sign a pledge to uphold the Portuguese constitution. Children born in Portugal to foreign parents are not automatically citizens.

The green and red Portuguese flag explained.

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Summer is festival time in Portugal

August is a popular month for “Festas” in Portugal. Towns and villages all over the country erect lighted decorations, bandstands and mobilize volunteers to provide meals for the hundreds of festival goers who show up to enjoy the good vibes.

Festival season actually begins around the end of May. There are a lot of villages and each one has to get a weekend. Of course sometimes two villages have their event on the same days, but it’s entirely possible to hit more than one Festa on a weekend. The music, feasting and dancing usually continues over two or three nights. Any event in Portugal involves eating. The most popular dish is grilled chicken, “frango assado”. The chicken is spatchcocked then grilled on an outdoor barbecue and served with fries and rice. (Yes, that’s right both fries AND rice. You often see that combination in Portugal.)

When it comes to August, everyone says you need to realize that nothing much happens during this month in Portugal. Stores and restaurants close for a couple of weeks, families go on vacation, and hordes of French tourists arrive.

The French tourists are not really normal tourists. Many of them are the children or grandchildren of Portuguese who went to France years ago to find work. They return to their ancestral villages to see family members and enjoy the summer festivals. Sun-seeking visitors from the UK, Ireland, Holland and Germany also arrive en masse in Portugal during the summer.

Many normal business operations slow down in August. By law, employees in Portugal have a minimum of 22 days of paid leave. The law also prohibits employers from offering employees extra pay to forego paid leave days. (Wouldn’t it be nice if employees in the US had the same benefits.)

Festa poster — A poster advertises a festival in the village of Vale Venteiro, central Portugal.

This year Portugal and most of southern Europe has experience an unusually hot summer. Since June temperatures have regularly been in the high 30sC (90sF.) But that hasn’t stopped the festival fun. Maybe that’s why all the feasting and music starts so late! The music often continues into the wee hours.

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Record heat after wet winter spells major fire risk in Portugal

Sweltering temperatures and an abundance of vegetation fed by a long wet spring have created ideal conditions for the wildfires now plaguing parts of Portugal and other southern European countries. But lessons learned from a deadly fire in 2017 spurred the country to respond more rapidly to send out alerts and to contain the blazes.

The website fogos.pt allows people to locate where the fires are and follow their progress. Another useful resource during fire season is Safe Communities Portugal. The website of this national non-profit organization links to information for all kinds of weather emergencies, crime alerts and even cyber crime.

This summer is different

I’ve spent seven summers in Portugal. Three years ago, in 2022, there was a dry winter and a heatwave in early July. Fires broke out all around my village. The response was swift. Within about 30 minutes of first spotting a plume of smoke in the distance, I heard the drone of planes and helicopters carrying water from a nearby lake to douse the flames. One day there were so many it sounded like a Word War II movie.

However 2025 is by far the hottest summer I’ve experienced. We’ve had temperatures in the mid-to high 30s Celcius (90s in Fahrenheit) with unpleasant regularity since mid-June. This week and next week in my town of Tomar, the thermometer is set to hit 38 C to 40 C or 100 F to 104 F for a couple of days. Luckily, my old stone house in the historic district of Tomar stays bearable with almost no need for air conditioning. I do, however, make sure to keep the shutters closed to keep out the sun during the hottest hours.

Heat Dome

These seemingly endless high temperatures are caused by an area of high pressure, sometimes called a “heat dome”, stalled over southern Europe and North Africa. This weather pattern has followed an unusually wet late winter and spring. This year, it started raining in early January and kept on raining almost daily until mid-May. Needless to say, everything grew like mad. Now, after weeks of dry weather, the weeds and wild grasses have dried up and everything is crunchy underfoot when I take my dog Divina for a walk in the forest. On top of that, much of central and northern Portugal is covered with highly flammable eucalyptus trees grown for paper making.

No surprises then that wildfires are breaking out. In recent days, areas in Northern Portugal have been the worst hit. Hundreds of fire fighters (Bombeiros) have been fighting a fire near the picturesque town of Ponte de Barca.

A helicopter carries a giant bucket filled with water to put out a wildfire.

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Tomar: Portugal’s hidden gem celebrates fascinating Knights Templar history

Tomar, the town in central Portugal where I now live, has a rich and historic past. It’s founder, Gualdim Pais, was the grand master of the Order of the Knights Templar in Portugal. Who were the Knights Templar?

If you have ever heard of the Crusades, then the Templars were part of that story. They started in 1119 as an order of warrior monks who protected pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem.

The Templars were similar to other medieval orders such as the Hospitallers who are linked to St. John’s Ambulance services in present-day UK, and the Knights of Malta. Tomar was an important center for the order in medieval Portugal.

Gualdim Pais is credited as the founder of Tomar, which Conde Nast magazine recently featured as a hidden gem of Portugal .

Statue of Tomar founder Gualdim Pais overlooks Christmas decorations in Tomar’s Praça da Republica in December, 2024.

The Templars became so powerful that they fell foul of the influential French king Phillip IV who persuaded Pope Clement V to disband the organization in 1312. In Portugal, the order regrouped as the Order of Christ. The order built the immense Convento de Cristo beside the Templar castle in Tomar. It is now a world heritage site.

Part of the huge Convento de Cristo which is now a Unesco world heritage site in Tomar, central Portugal. I draws tens of thousands of tourists each year,

Annual festival

Medieval dancers, wool spinning demonstrations, Moroccan tent, Camels in part of the animal display for children as part of the Festa dos Templarios.

Tomar celebrates its Templar history with an annual festival in July. The festival features, a banquet in the Convento de Cristo, and a dinner for the regular people, “Jantar do Povo” in the Mata de Sete Montes, a large local park. Dancers, jesters and bagpipe players entertain the diners as they enjoy their meal. The highlight of the festival is a torchlight procession. Modern day “knights” on horseback lead dozens of followers carrying flaming torches on the steep road down from the castle. They stop in the town square, the Praça da Republica for a brief ceremony honoring Gualdim Pais, then continue to the church of Santa Maria das Olivais where Pais is interred.

A group of friends waiting to go to the Jantar Real, or Royal Dinner at the Convento de Cristo during the 2024 Festa dos Templarios in Tomar.

Tourist business impact on small town

Living in a town that lives on its tourist reputation has both positive and negative impacts. In the warmer months, Tomar is teeming with busloads of tourists, you can hear French, Spanish, Italian tourists and American and British English accents. The city sports numerous Air BnB locations and innumerable cafes and restaurants. House prices and rents have soared in recent years as the foreign investors have flocked to the town.

I live on a street that was the center of the old Jewish quarter. It is colloquially known as Rua da Sinagoga. Down my street is the museum of the oldest synagogue in Portugal.

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