The Aussie tree that swallowed Portugal

A visitor traveling around Portugal may be surprised to see miles and miles of hillsides covered in eucalyptus forests. These trees, native to Australia, are grown for paper and pulp production, oils, resins, and construction.

Companies like Navigator and Renova produce a range of paper products that account for about 1.5 percent of Portugal’s GDP and about 80,000 jobs.

How did they get to Portugal?

Eucalyptus trees were brought to the Iberian Peninsula in the early nineteenth century. They were first planted in 1829 at the Quinta da Formiga in Vila Nova de Gaia, near Porto, according to Biodiversidade.com.pt. However, it was in the 1860s that the Portuguese railway company began large-scale plantations to use the logs for railroad ties (also known as sleepers in British English).

In a countryside characterized by short, steep hills and deep, narrow valleys, growing eucalyptus as a crop makes sense. They grow swiftly, can be harvested within 12 years, and they keep on growing. An area where the trees have been cut will sport new saplings within less than five years. The most prevalent variety is the Eucalyptus globulus or blue gum. Leaves on the very young trees are blue, turning to green as they mature.

Watching the eucalyptus being harvested is fascinating. A huge machine, mounted on tracks like a tank, can move up and down the steep hillsides. Its crane-like boom is equipped with a machine that can cut the tree, strip the leaves, and grabber claws lift and stack the logs. Operating one of these machines is skilled and dangerous work, according to an operator I talked to.

Hyundai logging machine — This track-mounted logging machine, built by Hyundai, can maneuver up and down steep hillsides where the trees are grown.

The business end of the logging machine can cut trees, strip the leaves and stack the logs.

A hillside where the eucalyptus trees have been harvested.

Giant matchsticks

Despite this, the Portuguese, however, have a love-hate relationship with these intruders from down under. Why? Let me count the ways. They are not native to Portugal. They use a lot of water, the plantations have eliminated biodiversity in many areas, and they pose a significant fire risk. Every summer, parts of the country are ravaged by fire, often because the burning eucalyptus bark is blown by the wind and spreads the blaze. An article in the Portugal news dubbed them “giant matchsticks”.

Smoke looms over countryside — Smoke from a wildfire looms over central Portugal. The trees in the foreground are oak, those in the distance are eucalyptus.

Personally, I fall into the I hate eucalyptus category. If I never see another eucalyptus plantation, I would be happy. The endless dark green of the hillsides, the tunnel-like roads that wind through the forests, is depressing to me. However, everyone has their own opinion. I use toilet paper and kitchen paper made by Renova!

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Best uncrowded beaches in Portugal

The Praia de Galé on the Alentejo coast is a hidden gem with magnificent rock formations and few people.

Portugal has been a vacation destination for northern Europeans for decades. Sun-hungry tourists typically flock to the well-known (and crowded) beaches of the Algarve, on the south coast. But the beaches of the Alentejo, on the west coast, are equally beautiful, and much less crowded.

The Alentejo coast is home to the beach of Comporta, which has become a magnet for celebrities and movie types. There is also the nearby resort of Troia, complete with a casino and opportunities to take dolphin-watching tours on the Sado River. Not for me.

My favorite is the Praia de Galé, about a twenty-minute drive from the small Alentejo town of Grandola. It is truly a hidden gem. The only way to reach it is either via a long dirt road past a campsite, or by winding through a small upscale neighborhood and descending a long, steep staircase. As you climb down the wooden steps, you suddenly come upon a magnificent cliff. The vivid orange sandstone is deeply grooved from centuries of wind and weather.

The beach stretches for many miles (kilometers) in each direction. Its remote location means you can enjoy the space without feeling cramped. Stroll along the sand, enjoy the surf, and even have a drink or light meal at the Mexican-themed beachside snack bar. A short distance south of Melides is the Lagoa de Santo André, an inlet of the sea whose shallow water is warmer than the Atlantic. My kind of place to venture into the water.

lounging on the beach at Lagoa de Santo Andre — Enjoying putting my feet in the sand at the Lagoa de Santo André beach near Grândola, Alentejo.

A few kilometers to the south of Praia de Galé is the delightful village of Melides, which is a short distance inland from another charming beach. When I first visited Portugal, intending to move there, I thought I would love to buy a place in or near Melides. Unfortunately, a lot of other people with a lot more money than me had the same idea. Prices there are sky-high. Still, it’s worth a visit, and you can enjoy a coffee or drink at the delightful cafe in the center of the village.

On to the Algarve

The Praia de Luz is one of the best known beaches in Portugal

Any visit to Portugal should probably include a trip to the Algarve. This region, located along the southern coast of the country, is home to towns such as Faro, Albufeira, Portimão, and Lagos, which attract thousands of tourists every summer. They come for the golf and the beaches. If you don’t mind a crowd, you can enjoy stunning views, and there is plenty of lively activity day and night. One of the best-known and most iconic beaches is the Praia de Luz, near Lagos.

Well, summer is now over, so beach visits are maybe for next year. But you can make plans now!

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Moving to Portugal popular, but times are changing

Dom Luis Bridge in Porto — These rabelo boats were historically used to transport Port wine barrels on the Douro River from vineyards to Vila Nova de Gaia.

In recent years, Portugal’s low cost of living, visa programs, sunny climate and access to other European countries have made it a sought-after destination for Americans seeking to move abroad. That trend accelerated even before the November 2024 election and a raft of executive actions that have rolled back protections for the LGBTQ and transgender community. Official figures show that the number of Americans living in the southern European country soared from around 3,000 in 2017 to more than 14,000 in 2023.

Reasons people give for making the move include the desire to flee a rising cost of living, political polarization, concerns about access to healthcare, and personal safety.

Portugal certainly meets those expectations. According to Global Citizen Solutions, a company that advises on international relocation, a couple can live comfortably in Portugal on between $2,500-$3,000 per month, outside major cities. The national healthcare system offers low or no-cost care to legal residents. The Global Peace Index ranked Portugal among the top ten safest countries in the world. Portugal is also ranked among the most LGBTQ-friendly. The country approved same-sex marriage in 2010, LGBTQ couples have adoption rights, and there is strong legislation prohibiting discrimination on sexual orientation and gender identity in employment, housing, healthcare, and public services.

Housing costs rising

However, Portugal’s very popularity has led to major changes. House prices have risen steadily in recent years, and will continue to increase because of demand, according to Fortune magazine. Idealista, a major property company in Portugal, reported prices increased by 6.5 percent in the year ending February 2025. Prices are highest in the major cities of Lisbon, Porto, and the southern district of the Algarve. Monthly rent for a one-bedroom apartment in Lisbon center starts at around 600-700 euros ($700-$820), according to Portugalist.com, but they can be tough to find.

House prices are lower in cities like Viana do Castelo, in northern Portugal, Santarem in central Portugal, and Castelo Branco, in the east near the Spanish border. It’s also possible to find much lower prices in country areas, but many properties require significant renovations. Dampness is a big problem in all Portuguese homes.

Visas and a change to residency requirement

There are multiple ways to relocate to Portugal. The D7 visa is available if you have “passive” income such as social security, pension or rental income. Applicants must provide an array of official documents, including proof of income. The VFS Global website, VFSglobal.com explains the process. The Golden Visa program which allowed applicants to obtain residency through investment in property, has been changed. It now requires applicants to invest between 200,000 and 500,000 euros in either a cultural organization or specified funds.

The D8, or “Digital Nomad” visa is available for applicants who can work remotely. Applicants must show proof monthly income of 3,480 euros, or about $4,000.

This year, the Portuguese government approved a major change to the requirements for obtaining Portuguese citizenship. Portugal is a member of the European Union and is covered by the Schengen agreement. This means, Portuguese citizens can travel visa-free and work anywhere within the EU.

Under new rules foreigners will need to complete 10 years of residency in Portugal before applying for citizenship, replacing the previous five-year requirement. The new rules include stricter language requirements, a civic knowledge test and applicants must sign a pledge to uphold the Portuguese constitution. Children born in Portugal to foreign parents are not automatically citizens.

The green and red Portuguese flag explained.

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Summer is festival time in Portugal

August is a popular month for “Festas” in Portugal. Towns and villages all over the country erect lighted decorations, bandstands and mobilize volunteers to provide meals for the hundreds of festival goers who show up to enjoy the good vibes.

Festival season actually begins around the end of May. There are a lot of villages and each one has to get a weekend. Of course sometimes two villages have their event on the same days, but it’s entirely possible to hit more than one Festa on a weekend. The music, feasting and dancing usually continues over two or three nights. Any event in Portugal involves eating. The most popular dish is grilled chicken, “frango assado”. The chicken is spatchcocked then grilled on an outdoor barbecue and served with fries and rice. (Yes, that’s right both fries AND rice. You often see that combination in Portugal.)

When it comes to August, everyone says you need to realize that nothing much happens during this month in Portugal. Stores and restaurants close for a couple of weeks, families go on vacation, and hordes of French tourists arrive.

The French tourists are not really normal tourists. Many of them are the children or grandchildren of Portuguese who went to France years ago to find work. They return to their ancestral villages to see family members and enjoy the summer festivals. Sun-seeking visitors from the UK, Ireland, Holland and Germany also arrive en masse in Portugal during the summer.

Many normal business operations slow down in August. By law, employees in Portugal have a minimum of 22 days of paid leave. The law also prohibits employers from offering employees extra pay to forego paid leave days. (Wouldn’t it be nice if employees in the US had the same benefits.)

Festa poster — A poster advertises a festival in the village of Vale Venteiro, central Portugal.

This year Portugal and most of southern Europe has experience an unusually hot summer. Since June temperatures have regularly been in the high 30sC (90sF.) But that hasn’t stopped the festival fun. Maybe that’s why all the feasting and music starts so late! The music often continues into the wee hours.

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Record heat after wet winter spells major fire risk in Portugal

Sweltering temperatures and an abundance of vegetation fed by a long wet spring have created ideal conditions for the wildfires now plaguing parts of Portugal and other southern European countries. But lessons learned from a deadly fire in 2017 spurred the country to respond more rapidly to send out alerts and to contain the blazes.

The website fogos.pt allows people to locate where the fires are and follow their progress. Another useful resource during fire season is Safe Communities Portugal. The website of this national non-profit organization links to information for all kinds of weather emergencies, crime alerts and even cyber crime.

This summer is different

I’ve spent seven summers in Portugal. Three years ago, in 2022, there was a dry winter and a heatwave in early July. Fires broke out all around my village. The response was swift. Within about 30 minutes of first spotting a plume of smoke in the distance, I heard the drone of planes and helicopters carrying water from a nearby lake to douse the flames. One day there were so many it sounded like a Word War II movie.

However 2025 is by far the hottest summer I’ve experienced. We’ve had temperatures in the mid-to high 30s Celcius (90s in Fahrenheit) with unpleasant regularity since mid-June. This week and next week in my town of Tomar, the thermometer is set to hit 38 C to 40 C or 100 F to 104 F for a couple of days. Luckily, my old stone house in the historic district of Tomar stays bearable with almost no need for air conditioning. I do, however, make sure to keep the shutters closed to keep out the sun during the hottest hours.

Heat Dome

These seemingly endless high temperatures are caused by an area of high pressure, sometimes called a “heat dome”, stalled over southern Europe and North Africa. This weather pattern has followed an unusually wet late winter and spring. This year, it started raining in early January and kept on raining almost daily until mid-May. Needless to say, everything grew like mad. Now, after weeks of dry weather, the weeds and wild grasses have dried up and everything is crunchy underfoot when I take my dog Divina for a walk in the forest. On top of that, much of central and northern Portugal is covered with highly flammable eucalyptus trees grown for paper making.

No surprises then that wildfires are breaking out. In recent days, areas in Northern Portugal have been the worst hit. Hundreds of fire fighters (Bombeiros) have been fighting a fire near the picturesque town of Ponte de Barca.

A helicopter carries a giant bucket filled with water to put out a wildfire.

Follow my blog to learn all about daily life in Portugal. Check out my website, RosalieRayburn.com for the latest on my Digger Doyle Mystery novels.

Tomar: Portugal’s hidden gem celebrates fascinating Knights Templar history

Tomar, the town in central Portugal where I now live, has a rich and historic past. It’s founder, Gualdim Pais, was the grand master of the Order of the Knights Templar in Portugal. Who were the Knights Templar?

If you have ever heard of the Crusades, then the Templars were part of that story. They started in 1119 as an order of warrior monks who protected pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem.

The Templars were similar to other medieval orders such as the Hospitallers who are linked to St. John’s Ambulance services in present-day UK, and the Knights of Malta. Tomar was an important center for the order in medieval Portugal.

Gualdim Pais is credited as the founder of Tomar, which Conde Nast magazine recently featured as a hidden gem of Portugal .

Statue of Tomar founder Gualdim Pais overlooks Christmas decorations in Tomar’s Praça da Republica in December, 2024.

The Templars became so powerful that they fell foul of the influential French king Phillip IV who persuaded Pope Clement V to disband the organization in 1312. In Portugal, the order regrouped as the Order of Christ. The order built the immense Convento de Cristo beside the Templar castle in Tomar. It is now a world heritage site.

Part of the huge Convento de Cristo which is now a Unesco world heritage site in Tomar, central Portugal. I draws tens of thousands of tourists each year,

Annual festival

Medieval dancers, wool spinning demonstrations, Moroccan tent, Camels in part of the animal display for children as part of the Festa dos Templarios.

Tomar celebrates its Templar history with an annual festival in July. The festival features, a banquet in the Convento de Cristo, and a dinner for the regular people, “Jantar do Povo” in the Mata de Sete Montes, a large local park. Dancers, jesters and bagpipe players entertain the diners as they enjoy their meal. The highlight of the festival is a torchlight procession. Modern day “knights” on horseback lead dozens of followers carrying flaming torches on the steep road down from the castle. They stop in the town square, the Praça da Republica for a brief ceremony honoring Gualdim Pais, then continue to the church of Santa Maria das Olivais where Pais is interred.

A group of friends waiting to go to the Jantar Real, or Royal Dinner at the Convento de Cristo during the 2024 Festa dos Templarios in Tomar.

Tourist business impact on small town

Living in a town that lives on its tourist reputation has both positive and negative impacts. In the warmer months, Tomar is teeming with busloads of tourists, you can hear French, Spanish, Italian tourists and American and British English accents. The city sports numerous Air BnB locations and innumerable cafes and restaurants. House prices and rents have soared in recent years as the foreign investors have flocked to the town.

I live on a street that was the center of the old Jewish quarter. It is colloquially known as Rua da Sinagoga. Down my street is the museum of the oldest synagogue in Portugal.

Follow my blog to read more about daily life in Portugal. Visit my website RosalieRayburn.com to read about my Digger Doyle mystery book series.

Author podcast is a new horizon for books

This month I ventured into the world of podcasts with an interview on The Author Show. This is a podcast where authors get to talk about their books. It’s a new way to reach potential readers. For readers, it’s a great way to discover different authors and styles of books. The podcast is accessible on many platforms including: Amazon Music, Apple /Podcast, iHeartRadio, GooglePodcast, Pandora, Podchaser, Soundcloud, Spotify and TuneIn.

The host of this show, Don McCauley, is a marketing expert and he gives his author subjects a lot of help to prepare for the fifteen minute interview. He emailed me a list of suggested questions and invited me to submit up to ten additional questions he could ask during the interview. The aim, he advises, is to grab the listener’s attention with a great hook.

How to do that? Well, you have to know your genre and the specific style of that genre. For example, if it is a mystery, do you have a lot of action? A tough he-man main character? Or a smart sassy female detective? My latest book “Windswept” has the intrepid young reporter Elizabeth “Digger” Doyle.

Political mystery

Here’s how The Author’s Show blurb describes the plot of Windswept. “Investigating the mysterious death of a controversial politician, Digger is thrust into a storm of political intrigue, buried secrets and personal risk.”

The setting of the book is crucial to the plot. “Set against the windswept landscapes of New Mexico, Windswept is a gripping LGBTQ+ political mystery that explores how far people will go to protect power, and what happens when the truth refuses to stay buried.”

Part of a series

Windswept is the third book in my “Digger Doyle Mystery” series. The first book, “The Power of Rain”, weaves political corruption and social activism, the second “The Sunshine Solution” blends investigative journalism, political manipulation and personal stakes. All three books are based on my experience as a journalist with the Albuquerque Journal, largest daily newspaper in New Mexico.

Each book in the series is available in print and ebook form from Amazon, and Kindle, and from Barnes and Noble and local book stores in Albuquerque and Santa Fe.

The three books in my Digger Doyle mystery series.

You can also buy my books through my website, RosalieRayburn.com

Loving my cycling adventure in France

Standing by memorial to the fallen of WWI and WWII in Sanxay, in Nouvelle Aquitaine area of France.

It’s hot, but that hasn’t stopped my friend Lisa and I from enjoying some great bike riding in this lovely area of France. We are near the cities of Poitiers and Niort. The countryside is gently rolling low hills with fields of wheat, barley and corn.

Ancient bridge over the Vonne river in Sanxay.

Lisa has a charming little stone house dating from the 19th century in a tiny village. We are friends through cycling and having sort of worked together many years ago.

I arrived Monday evening after flying from Lisbon and a train from Bordeaux to Poitiers. We have gone cycling each morning, riding from 19 km to 27 km. We’ve passed villages, lakes, forests.

Yesterday we had a fright as a large, vicious looking dog charged out of a farm yard and ran after us. Afraid the dog would take a chunk out of my leg, I pedaled like mad. Thankfully we left the scary dog behind. Three minutes later, we saw a small deer spring across the lane in front of us.

Mill house. The mill was on a site of a mill from the Middle Ages.

Two more days here. Last day will be exploring Bordeaux.

Any day cycling is better than a day in the office.

Why it’s useful to speak Portuguese, and how to learn

Being able to speak Portuguese, even a few words, is a huge advantage for anyone planning to move to this lovely country. Yes, many Portuguese people, especially those under 40, speak very good English. They are ready to help you even if you start off speaking to them in their own language. But they are usually delighted when you show that you’ve made the effort to learn and they will often compliment you on your halting sentences.

Portugal is becoming a popular potential retirement destination for an increasing number of people from the US. If you are one of those considering a move, it is worth making a scouting trip to explore different parts of the country and get a feel for life here. It is also very valuable to familiarize yourself with the language before you come.

That said, if your pronunciation is off you may get blank stares even though you think you have said the word correctly. It’s worth mentioning that there is a big distinction between the Portuguese spoken in Portugal and that spoken in Brazil. Think about the variations between the English spoken in the UK, the United States and Australia. Or the Spanish spoken in Spain versus that used in Cuba, Mexico or Argentina.

Online language learning options

There are several online options to learn Portuguese. I followed an online course offered by Babbel.com. It was simple, practical and fun. The monthly subscription is currently $17.95. A longterm commitment brings down the price; for example six-month subscription costs $13.45 per month, a 12-months subscription is $8.95. Duolingo as an app you can use on your mobile phone with a free option. It gradually builds your vocabulary and grammatical skills. It also nags you daily to keep going. Babbel and Duolingo only offer the Brazilian version, but I still found them useful. After all, Portugal still has close ties with its former colony Brazil. There are hundreds of thousands of Brazilians now living in Portugal.

There are options for learning European Portuguese too. You can try the app Memrise, which does have a limited free version. There is also PracticePortuguese where you can listen to short conversations. If you subscribe, you can follow along with the text. The idea was developed by a Portuguese guy and his Canadian partner. It has useful information on the nitty gritty stuff like verbs as well. PortuguesewithLeo is a fun alternative available on YouTube. If you do move to Portugal, in most towns there are opportunities to take Portuguese classes at a local secondary school (high school) for a very nominal sum, maybe 8 euros (less than $10.)

Lost in translation?

There are of course a lot of Portuguese people who do not speak English. Some people use Google Translate to help them communicate in those situations. However, it’s not always foolproof. I know one woman who somehow managed to ask a very formal Portuguese man she met at a grand country hotel if he would marry her! Luckily he had a sense of humor. I have found the app Deepl to be very helpful when I need to translate a sentence quickly.

A couple of words and phrases that will stand you in good stead. “Casa de Banho” pronounced “cah-zah de bahnyo” means bathroom. A conta “ah cawn-tah” means the bill at a restaurant. Cerveja “ser-vay-zhya” means beer. Thank you is “Obrigado” for a man, “Obrigada” for a woman. “Bom dia” is good morning, “boa tarde” is good afternoon. So, good luck, or boa sorte, with learning Portuguese.

Subscribe to my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal. Check my website RosalieRayburn.com for news about my Digger Doyle mystery series.

Cristo Rei statue overlooks city of Lisbon — The Cristo Rei statue overlooks the Tejo river in Lisbon

How to decide where to settle in Portugal

Many people are interested in moving to Portugal. At least that’s how it looks when I scan the multiple Facebook groups I’ve joined because they are aimed at expats living in, or interested in, Portugal. There are more than a hundred such groups; catering to every possible taste. The question I see over and over, is “I’m planning to move to Portugal in XX many years, what’s the best place to go?”

This is the kind of question that drives those of us who have made the move absolutely crazy. How can anyone else know where that person would like to live? It depends on so many things.

My response to this kind of question is to suggest people look at their lifestyle and ask themselves the following:

Are you used to living in a city or the country? Which do you prefer?
How much do you like to shop? Do you want to have a big choice of stores nearby or are you okay with small local stores and visiting shopping centers only now and again?
Do you eat out a lot? How important is it for you to have restaurants nearby?
Do you want to have a car? Or are you comfortable with using public transportation?
How often do you want to travel? Is it important for you to be near an airport?
What is your income and budget? Prices in Lisbon and Porto have risen steeply in recent years.

These are just a few of the questions people who are “thinking” about moving to Portugal should ask themselves. Facebook groups such as Pure Portugal – Living the Good Life, Moving to Portugal, Expats in Portugal Q&A and many, many more, can provide much valuable information. People can pose questions and get answers from those who have already made the move and settled here. Internet research is invaluable, but a trip to the country is the best way to get a real feel for the place. You get to meet the people face-to-face, taste the food, see the landscape and the architecture.

Discovering the country

Portugal is still quite a poor country by comparison with others in western European. Outside the bigger cities, the countryside is depopulated and many villages have a lot of houses that have been sitting empty for years. You can buy them cheaply, but they also take a lot of time and effort to renovate. Still, life in a Portuguese village can be very fulfilling. People are welcoming and willing to help you. Lunch in a small family-run restaurant can cost you as little as 10 euros for a three-course meal with wine and coffee. Cars and gasoline/diesel are expensive, but if you live in the country you will almost certainly need to drive. Most Portuguese roads are narrow and winding, but luckily there is little traffic. The highways are superb but you usually have to pay tolls.

Portuguese houses

Portuguese houses are usually made of stone. They keep out the heat in the summer but can be awfully cold and damp in the winter. Now that I have experienced a few winters here I always advise people to buy a dehumidifier. You will definitely need it.

The Alentejo and Algarve regions are the hottest in the summer and mildest in the winter. Areas in the far north and closer to the Spanish border are typically the coldest in the winter. The small moutain range called the Serra de Estrela typically get snow and there is even a small ski resort which is open from November to April.

These are just a few thoughts I decided to share about life in Portugal. I moved here more six years after extensive research. One of the ways I did my research was to do volunteer jobs that I found through through the Workaway website. It gave me a great opportunity to meet people and gather useful information. It also gave me a free place to stay. There are all kinds of jobs: gardening, home renovation, working with animals etc etc. You typically work about five hours per day and have one day off per week.

Follow my blog to learn more about daily life in Portugal and check out my website: RosalieRayburn.com